I`m now completing my build of a Midwest Extra 300S which has been fitted with a two stroke petrol DLE 40cc twin and the standard ignition module. Power is from two separate 6.6v 1100mAh LiFe batteries. One powers the receiver and the other, the ignition. I`ve also fitted a Rcexl Opto Gas Engine Kill Switch V2 to provide what I hope will provide an auto kill for the ignition should either the receiver or the transmitter fail. A red LED is fitted which is part of the kill unit and a tachometer plugs directly to an outlet from the ignition module. RX power comes from one of those batteries in the normal way. Power for the spark ignition is fed via the kill switch. The model power isolation is via normal switch between the RX LiFe and the receiver. Upon switching to "on" the red LED as part of the kill switch interface illuminates. I`ve not yet been able to run the motor to check functionality of the kill switch. My question is this? If I turn off the transmitter with the RX still live, the red LED still glows. My quandary is, how do I know whether the ignition has been killed as a result of turning off the TX?

Typically, the instructions (see images attached) are in Chinlish (Chinese English) and are not terribly clear. You will see the two circuit illustrations. I have wired mine as non BEC equipped. You will also see a third illustration at the bottom of the image. This refers to some method of modifying the unit by re-soldering two joints. I`m not sure if that applies to my installation.

All in all, I`m a bit vexed and muddled. Could anyone please help clear my fog? I`d also add that as a newbie back on the model scene after forty odd years, the new transmitters and receivers are something of a mystery to me. I`ve noted that some sort of kill switch is mentioned within the programming menu on my Futaba 7C. Being rather clueless generally on this modern type of radio gear, some guidance would be appreciated if anyone could possibly please offer some guidance.

My contact details are obviously via this Club portal or direct on 07974 131127.

Thanks, guys.

Mike Kennedy.

I prefer the Black Horse Landscape 30cc but I think it might be too fast for our field.

As you may know I purchased this DLE30 second hand to fit in my mustang and after few flights notice that the engine at high rpm sounds a bit weird..

Nothing wrong with that but before I start messing around with it, wanted to ask if anybody can advise on this.

As is difficult to explain, I have made a small video with some low passes so you can hear it by yourself.

By the way, the plug is brand new and the engine generally speaking performs very well, solid idle and crips throttle response.

Suggestions ?

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/19160388/P51D%20Mustang%20engine.m4v

Whats the advantages and disadvantages of both and also whats the sive equivilants e.g. a .91 2-stroke = 1.20 4-stroke.

Whats your opinions

As some of you know I started building this plane last year back in Madrid, Spain as a long term project and soon I will be going back for few days so will carry on building it and hopefully finish it!

I want to fit a gas engine and had in mind DLE20 which seems to be a popular one for this model as I could see on the internet.

The problem I have is that I don't know whether I should put instead a DLE30...

The reason being is that price difference between the DLE20 and DLE30 is not much at all, and secondly and most important I think with the DLE 30 in the future I would be able to fit it in other larger models and make the most out of it.

I don't want to buy an engine that later I can't use if wanna fly larger models basically.

So here I guess I would have to consider two things if I decided to go for the DLE 30 :

1) power

2) weight

3) dimensions

I reckon having bit of extra power is not a bad thing ( correct me if I am wrong ) and weight issue ( difference between the two is 300g ) I am sure I can balance that.

Dimensions, DLE 30 being bit bigger not sure if it would fit inside the cowl...

Any suggestions?

Need to decide and order the engine so when I go back to Spain I can fitted and break in..

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/19160388/P51D/IMG_1184.JPG

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/19160388/P51D/IMG_1186.JPG

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/19160388/P51D/IMG_1187.JPG

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/19160388/P51D/IMG_1190.JPG

For those interested, I want to do this purely for the engine's good while it is in "storage". I'm unlikely to fly the plane this year or even next at my current rate of flying days, but want to flick the engine over once in a while to stop the diaphragm drying out etc. Easiest way for me to do this is to bench mount it at my Dad's place and run it once in a while as it avoids my lifting the airframe out of the attic and hauling it to our flying field.

(And yes, this implies I had a change of heart about selling my Extra, although it will still go for the right price )

Cheers

Arun

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SAITO-FG-36-4 ... 155wt_1265

http://www.rc-fans88.com/details.asp?prodid=2564

1.20/30cc size model (global RC Extra 300) £200

http://www.globalrc.co.uk/extra-300lp-138-p.asp

When I look back and payed silly money for an Funtana and glow engine currently almost £300 for an Funtana 1.25 size model and £254 for an OS 1.20 size glow engine you can see the big difference.

http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/77066/

http://www2.ripmax.net/item.asp?itemid= ... 80-010-171

As well as fuel cost and dirty snot fuel...................

Any way the plane and engine combo is in this vid..............£330 V £554 you make your mind up

1/6th Scale 23cc petrol buggy - loud and fast!

Then try sticking to it.

http://www.mister-solutions.co.uk/

Can you see the difference? The picture of the two Extras included my first and Mick's. It didn't survive long, aileron servo failure seems to be the primary cause, inexperience with big models may not have helped either.

The picture of the lone Extra is my mark 2 and it flies great. It's a World Models Extra for 160 glow fitted with a MVVS 215 (34cc) petrol.

Another lesson learned from mark one was that it could loose some weight from the front, so for mark 2 the engine box was shortened about 30mm and the radio/battery install is now a lot more sensible.

Started fitting it out, sorting the cowl and engine fitting, which is proceeding fairly well, cutting apertures to clear the Cyl head, plug, and a hole for the carb venturi - ( will get a better in-cowl silencer than the standard one supplied from Just Engines), the only thing I would like advice on, is the tank plumbing arrangements. I know I don't need pressure as on glow engines 'cos the carb is pumped, but presumably I will need a vent and fill pipe. What fittings do you petrol heads use to and from the tank, and the arrangement for fill and vent pipes?

Do they have an out house / club hunt there to?

Better get those Spitfire wings joined before the big box arrives at the weekend.

Joe - decided to go with the 26cc MVVS on the advice of Glen. Power of the Zenoah but only the weight of an OS 120fs plus a battery.