Jump to content
This is a snapshot of the forum as it was on Thursday 2nd Dec 2021. Not everything will work.
It is not possible to login, edit or make any changes and is provided for prosterity for those who wish to view the old content.
C.A.M.F.C - Members & Visitors area

Lofty

Club Visitors
  • Content Count

    680
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    6

Posts posted by Lofty

  1. APC 12.25x3.75 is what I used on my OS 32 SX, with 10% to 30% Nitro!

    I've had a few OS AX engines, and didn't think much of them vs SX / FX range! "Same can be said for the Alpha f/s range as well!"

     But having said that, the OS 75AX & Alpha F/S 56 were great!

    The only problem now with using higher lvls of Nitro, is the cost!

  2. 4 hours ago, Pilot Ben said:
    Quote

     

    You know I'm hopeless at charging:D!  I assume that to charge a car battery I need something along the lines of this https://www.amazon.fr/5060114614956-Chargeur-Batterie-AA-mainteneur/dp/B00DW6RHN2

    Am I correct?

     

    You could use something like that.......they are for maintaining the battery, over a long time! So it is always ready to use! 

    I have heard in the end, the battery will dry out. When using a maintainer thing!

    You could just use your AC/DC field charger, to do the job! Or just buy a standard car battery charger! You can get them from around £20+ etc etc!

    Quote

    Update - I have a cheapo charger that has dual power supply, IE from regular home socket, and a car cigarette lighter. Is it better to buy an adaptor for the car lighter end so it can be connected to my car battery, or will it charge quick enough if just plugged into the lighter socket in the car? I know that it will work from the lighter socket but what I don't know is how long it will take and wonder if its quicker and safer to charge it from a separate car battery?

    To me that sounds straight! Do you have 3 sets of wires? Or only 2 ?

    e.g if you have three, mains, cig lighter "male or female?" and x2 croc clips..........?

    Anyway I would always charge from the house mains! If you want you could charge by the cigarette lighter socket, but you will be taking energy from the car battery in the car! "car may not start, then :( " 

    Its very easy to charge them 12 battery's up anyway......most modern car battery charger are auto these days! So its just plug and play..........or when green light is showing, its charged up :) 

  3. Quote
    The acrowot xl is as you say a briliant model but I get the impression it needs all the large model equipment, yet isn't really a large model. I think I would go for the regular one.

    Indeed its not that big at all! But for most people / flyer's 80inch is still a larger model! When it comes to the LMA test you have to use a large model.....which is over 80inchs. "most flyer take the test with something bigger"

    Also for most clubs, 7kg is the max weight as well! "as you know"

    When it comes to the equipment, you would only need say 6kg servos all round.......I would also go metal geared as well! And nothing else that super at all! Just a standard set-up for the most part.......

    Quote
    Enlarging designs is really quite easy! Just add thicker materials and strengthening and you are good to go! I enlarged a hobbyking tek sumo flying wing up to 400%, or with a 4m wingspan, for slope soaring. Absolutely brilliant fun with two standard servos and a 4.8v battery!

    Of course that was foam and no motor I imagine a balsa IC version is much harder to plan and construct.

     

    Indeed seen lots of enlarged plan's / kits "mosty self done"! But sometimes it don't work well......

    Quote
    I personally have always wanted to enlarge a trainer. IE trainer XXL. For large model training, such as power box systems, two or more rx batteries, two rx and so on... :wink: About 60cc or so. Think of the flour bombs we could drop from that :D

    These is the LMA Genesis trainer, which can take up to a 65cc engine! But its a full build kit and looks like a crapo Acro Wot :lol: Would be cool to have a 100inch+ Boomerang trainer.

    A lot of the big trainers are also made for towing as well, or become scale looking training planes!

    I have also flown the Pilot RC 90" trainer.......

    But none of that stuff needs power box, 2x rx etc etc! But there nothing stopping you from using it, well a part from money :)

  4. I am sure, I've seen a super size Cougar 2000....maybe at Wings & Wheels years and years ago!

    A nice ARTF larger than standard model is the RipMax Acro Wot XL.......Colour scheme is a bit, so, so! But you can put a 25 / 35 CC engine in it and its under 7kg!

    Would / could be a good first time petrol plane! Was flying one a few weekends ago.......

    Shame the XL Wot4 is 45/55 cc engine and over 7kg!

    P.s You can get the Acro Wot XL kit for around £200, which is not a bad price for a 80"ish model!

  5. Pilot Ben said:
    OOnly 3/4 cell lipos and 4/5 cell rx batteries. I do like the fusion charger :D:D

    I only have 1 charger now, and its the Pro-Peck sticker version of the fusion charger....which is the same! Its not the best and its not that bad......will do anything an avg. RC flyer needs!

    Most good model shops would discount that price anyway, "maybe"! But also you may be able to find the same charger at HobbyKing as well!

    A lot of the in-side parts are the same as well, even if they have different looking outer body's.

    Lots of people at the field have HobbyKing chargers, so best to talk to them....

  6. Pilot Ben said:
    Hi All,

     

    I understand the battery I need is a standard car battery that I could pick up from a garage for £10 or so? I think this can be topped up once a month?

     

    I still use an £8 hobbyking lipo charger so I don't really know much about this topic :D

     

    B :wink::wink:

    Standard car battery would most likely cost you way more than £10, more like £40+! Most of them come with a floating charge indicator...e.g if you can see the green you are ok, if you can;t charge it up "some turn Red"

    Or just play it by ear......work it out in your head how much you have used the battery for charging other batterys....

    The higher the Amp hour of the battery the more you can charge from it.......but they do cost more and get heavy er etc etc So a 75 Amp hour battery could charge 75 x 1000mha battery's.......or there about's!

    But the more you charge from the 12v car battery the lower the voltage of the battery its self.....so you will not get 75 full charges at all........

    Also what type / voltage battery's do you want to charge, off the 12 car battery.....plays a big part of it as well! E.g good luck charging 5+ cell Li-Po off a car battery.....

    I had to use a 12v petrol generator with the big stuff.........or lots of small stuff with multi chargers running!

    Having said all that, if you just want to charge 3 / 4 cell Li-Po's and 4 / 5 cell RX,TX battery's then a standard 12v car battery will do!

    When it comes to chargers, make sure you get a charger that is AC / DC.........so you can use it from a wall socket or a power supply and 12v battery! A lot of the chargers are the same, but come with different company stickers on them!

    I am not going to talk about HobbyKing, someone else can! But if you want a standard AC/DC charger from the UK shop then something like this :-

    http://www.logicrc.com/?s=c:0,c:40,c:40-30&ItemId=O-FS-LX60BP or

    http://www.ripmax.com/Item.aspx?ItemID=O-IP2851/EUR&Category=O0150

    Not saying buy one of these, the RipMax one is £90, lol wtf! But this is the type of standard charger, that most people have!

    These are also very good, I've had a few......but only 12v DC :cry:

    http://www.sloughrc.com/default.asp?WPG=SRCM_HomePage1&itemid=4402930

    P.s The more bells and whistle you want in a charger the more its going to cost :roll:

  7.  

    :D the s3001's make 3.2kg so I may be alright.....

     

    They are only around 3kg at 6v........maybe a bit more powerful and faster with a fully charge 5 cell battery! I always charged the battery up every 3 flights or so as well!

    Futaba S3001

    4.8V 33 oz-in (2.4 kg-cm) 0.28 sec/60°

    6.0V 42 oz-in (3.0 kg-cm) 0.22 sec/60°

     

  8.  

    8) So... I cant fit a 5cell/6v battery in no matter what shape humped/flat/square so I've gone for a 4.8v 2500mah instead.

     

    At 6v my HS322HD servos in the wing produce 3.7kg of torque, and at 4.8v they produce only 3.

    I think this will be enough as there's two of them? Will it be enough?

     

    At 4.8v the 645's make 8kg so no issues there :D !

     

    B :D:mrgreen::wink::lol:

     

    You could try one of them newish Li-FePO4 / A123, 2 cell batteys, they come in all sizes and mAh's! They do cost a bit more than a standard battery, but give you so much more! "just a thought".....

     

    Best to fly it and see what the roll rate is like! If you find you are getting servo / control blow back, then you may need to replace them with some thing a bit better!

    I did fly one on Futaba S3001's all round, and it was ok! But in the end, its all down to how you fly it or what you want to do with it!

     

    Edit:- I have always flown mine on 5 cell batterys tho!

     

  9.  

    ive tried :(

    it doesn't fit by about half a cm because of the formers that stick out of the fuz sides... :lol:

     

    Not telling you to do this, but is that yellow tray main fuselage straight part or just a tray for mouthing a Li-Po battery? If not you could cut a slot for the battery to sit in the slot next to the fus wall, vertically!? e.g where the slots are cut out already for the hook & loop fastener to go.

    Did you also glue that part in yourself, or did it come like that?

     

    My Cougar 2000 never had that part in them! Also the throttle servo was mounted flat on the bottom part of the fuselage........."under that yellow tray, which wasn't there......

    I see they give you a throttle servo mount now as well!

     

    Anyway an-till its finish, you may not know where the battery needs to go for the CoG!

     

     

    P.s Maybe cut half that tray away......so you can mount the battery flat on the bottom of the fus !?

     

  10.  

    All this faff because Weston put a tray in the fuz for all them leccy people :shock:

     

     

    From the photos of the yellow tray! Looks like you could easy use that to mount a flat 5cell battery in place with hook & loop, double side tape or pull tie's etc. etc.

     

  11.  

    I've used standard servo's "Futaba S3001" all around before on 5 cell battery and it was all right! Also used S3010 and S3152 as well...

     

    I don't think you need much more than top-spec standard for this type of model!.....but having said that, metal gear & digital servos would be better!

    Also better to have 5kg+ servos for elev / rud!

     

    But in the end, its how you are going to fly it = what servos to use!

     

  12.  

    Gaaaah! I'm struggling to fit all the radio in to the fuz it's so small! I wanted to use a 2500 6v but it won't fit, so I have to use a 2600 4.8v instead :D

     

    Tail hooked up, cougar almost done :mrgreen::mrgreen::mrgreen:

     

    You could try one of them "hump back" 6V battery! I can't remember now where I have had my 5 cell flat batterys in the C2000s I've had :? But I did get them in there!

    Then again, I probable didn't go with the CoG they said..... not telling you to do that!

     

    I always use the OS 32SX engines on mine, one of the best little engines out there! But they didn't last to long running 20+ nitro fuels, tuned to the max and prop hanging for hours :lol: .......

    Poor little thing :o

     

  13.  

    Pink, Eh? That'll go down well with the tens of thousands of female modellers.

    For electric, never mind cooling scoops (cut plastic spoons are OK), it's the battery hatch that's needed as no way would I keep removing the wing.

     

    I like Pink :oops:

     

    Indeed, the new Hype 3D R has a removable canopy = easy to get to the battery! And also 2 piece wing as well.......

     

     

    Who want a electric 52 size 3D model??!? That's what nitro is for!

     

     

    They should make cougar IC and jaguar electric. That's it, I've solved the cougar problem, make a new electric funfly model with hatch and plastic spoons in the front, and it can be blue!!!

     

    :mrgreen::mrgreen::wink::lol::lol:

     

     

    You may change your tune, once you have had some of the SebArt 50 size kits! They are some of the best 3D planes out there, PA models comes close!

    The only down size is they need 6cell 3000mAh+ Li-Pos! But with HobbyKing around its not that bad.......I paid £150 each in the old days for 6Cell Li-Po's :shock::?

    The 30 size are also very good as well! Which only take 3 cell, or like me I would set them up for 4 cell!

     

    Most of there models can be set-up for 3D or patton ship flying as well!

     

     

    Another down side is the kit do cost more money than most, and also they don't take a crash well or a hard landing!

     

  14. Bravedan said:
    Pink, Eh? That'll go down well with the tens of thousands of female modellers.

     

    For electric, never mind cooling scoops (cut plastic spoons are OK), it's the battery hatch that's needed as no way would I keep removing the wing.

    I like Pink :oops:

    Indeed, the new Hype 3D R has a removable canopy = easy to get to the battery! And also 2 piece wing as well.......

  15. I take it that is the Cougar 2000 V3, then?

    Me and E.T looked at the new / latest cougar 2000 in a box, at Headcorn show this year and it looked the same :? "When I say new or latest, that's what he said"..........But anyway, a salesman/woman is going to say anything to sell :lol::roll:

    I think I've only had V1 and V2 "IC only"....as mine never came with the air intakes for esc/battery cooling! Which I did see in the Cougar box at the show!

  16. Pilot Ben said:
    How would I remove epoxy?

    The vertical stab is in crooked and its epoxied.

    Has anyone got a spare vertical stab as Weston ask £25!!!:

    I've spent many an hour removing / trying to remove epoxy's " or any type of glues"! And all I can say is, for this model :-

    Maybe just re-make a new vertical stab part!!!! On the C 2000, it has some shape to it, but its not a work of art rudder posted, like some models have!

    But its up to you, in the end!

    P.s I don;t want to say what I have done to remove glues, as it could lead to you hurting your self etc. etc.

  17.  

    What I hadn't realised was that the same people in NZ who rebuilt KA114 have just had the first post-restoration flight of another Mosquito: TV959/ZK-FHC. First post-restoration flight was 26th September 2016 - i.e. Monday just gone!

     

    About 2 / 3 weeks ago, there was videos of this mosquito! Doing engine start ups and taxing on facebook site's / utube! But I have not seen anything more about the first flight at all!

     

    There should be another one soon "RL249" by 2020 or before, which is being restored and UK based! This is also know as "The People’s Mosquito"!

     

    http://www.peoplesmosquito.org.uk/

     

    But in the end its all down to money :?

     

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.