Pilot Ben 28 Posted August 14, 2016 Share Posted August 14, 2016 Just online looking for some stuff to modify my new wot 4 foam e (don't ask me being lazy (again) ) and I found this amazing site. It may appear a bit nerdy but I am soon to order: M3 200mm x4 M3 150mm x4 M3 100mm x4 M3 nylon nuts x50 M3 nuts x50 M3 washers x100 M3 domed nuts x50 For £12.61 (inc postage) http://www.technobotsonline.com/ I will also put a post up on forum as it may help someone who needs to do the mod. The site I found is http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1297511&page=19 Anyway, coming home from Sri Lanka tomorrow so I'll see you all on Sunday. B Link to post Share on other sites
Club Members Martin 0 Posted August 15, 2016 Club Members Share Posted August 15, 2016 Model Fixings is also a good source for small screws, nuts, studding, etc. Good quality stuff, too - quite a lot of screws sold through the model trade are not great. OK for small orders too as minimum postage cost is quite low - a few pounds. http://www.modelfixings.co.uk/ Incidentally, which of the mods described on that thread are you actually doing? The undercarriage reinforcement with plate inside radio compartment and two threaded rods? I have done that (albeit with 4mm plywood rather than plastic) and it works well. I don't think there is any need to use nylon nuts designed to strip as described there, though - I used regular nylocs, and even though I've bent the threaded rods and split the plywood, it didn't cause any extra damage to the fus through the undercarriage not yielding. I have since used some 60mm M3 socket cap screws from Model Fixings going into M3 T-nuts in the plywood, but actually this is less good than my original approach with M3 threaded rod, one plain nut permanently threadlocked to the top, and a washer and nyloc on the bottom. Lining up the screws coming from underneath to hit the holes in the plywood is tricky! Link to post Share on other sites
Pilot Ben 28 Posted August 16, 2016 Author Share Posted August 16, 2016 Yes I'm doing the u/c mod. The nylon nuts are there because I cracked the ply and damaged the foam in the rx bay in an emergency landing as I got a "signal loss" warning. It takes 2 secs to replace the nuts and not a day to fix the fus. Also, can anyone remember how long their bolts were??? B Link to post Share on other sites
Club Members Bravedan 106 Posted August 16, 2016 Club Members Share Posted August 16, 2016 I have used Modelfixings for many years now, always good fast service, great range of product, good quality. Running the large club I do means I get through lots! They are one of the few sources of small .1mm step allen keys, useful to get a small stretched headed one out where the original is made of Cheesium or worse, Align-ium. Link to post Share on other sites
Club Members Martin 0 Posted August 16, 2016 Club Members Share Posted August 16, 2016 Yes I'm doing the u/c mod. The nylon nuts are there because I cracked the ply and damaged the foam in the rx bay in an emergency landing as I got a "signal loss" warning. It takes 2 secs to replace the nuts and not a day to fix the fus. You need a thicker bit of ply, then! I certainly have cracked one bit of ply, but it's not hard to make another, and you could always make a spare and keep it in your box... Generally I find that the undercarriage is the one bit that survives when I crash yet another WOT-4 foamie! Also, can anyone remember how long their bolts were??? Having just looked up the relevant Model Fixings order, when I was using M3 socket cap screws they were 60mm long. However, that's only enough to get through into a T-nut, not to protrude the other side as you'd need if you're using studding with a plain nut on the end. 65-70mm is probably about right, but personally I would measure it to be sure (use a spare bit of pushrod or something, a pen, and a ruler). I can't get to the old bits of studding right now to measure them. If you're using the breakaway nuts idea then the length becomes quite critical. Link to post Share on other sites
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