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  3. Always worth asking. I`m in the market for a good, top quality, new or used, 120 or 150 four stroke motor. Does anyone have one they wish to sell? (Date of this posting, 23/01/2020) Please contact me if you have something suitable to sell. Mike Kennedy 01883 625406
  4. Here we go again....I need another kite to build! With Emma`s kind help at Avicraft, we looked at the Seagull Bucker Jungmeister kit listing online. It would make a great stable-mate for my Seagull produced Stearman, Fly Baby, Sparrow Hawk and Gypsy Moth. The Jungmeister is presently in transit from Vietnam and expected at J Perkins on or around 20th February 2020. That should give my ruptured wallet time to recover from my Christmas and New Year spending sprees. In the meantime, I`m on the hunt for a good used OS1.20 FS or similar spec motor. There is a pumped version listed on eBay so I`ll have a punt on that. A spare receiver sits here in its box unallocated and a few servos are also to hand. I`ll collect a few more good used examples from Rob in due course. As is now my habit with these somewhat heavy tailed Seagull kits, I`ll also be swapping out the heavy mild steel push rod wires in favour of 2mm carbon rods. A couple of saved ounces at the tail end often saves six ounces at the nose with a total weight save of about half a pound. Servos will also come as far forward as possible to help with weight and balance issues. Using this method, I managed to get the Gypsy Moth to balance correctly straight from the box and without any dead weight ballast being placed in the nose. That was totally unexpected and I suspect I probably have the lightest built Seagull Gypsy Moth around. Not many people would go to the bother of moving servos or swapping wire pushrods. The small effort in the modification involved certainly pays you back very quickly. Its total joy to have a model C of G in the correct place without much effort or additional ballast. The Seagull Jungmeister manual states the "air-frame" weight to be 11Lbs. Bearing in mind all my previous Seagull kits have always exceeded the stated weights by about a pound, I`d expect the Jungmeister to also exceed the manufacturers guide weight by a similar figure. How I wish makers would clearly state the finished airframe weight only and also give an example of that same air frame once fitted with typical servos, battery and motor. This of course would be a highly variable figure dependent on what equipment a particular builder installs but some guide figure would be helpful. The complete finished all up weight figure affects all of us who fly within our local Flight Restriction Zone where the maximum dry weight of a model must not exceed 15.7Lbs/7Kg. Building a model with a final weight in excess of that 7Kg obviously makes it an illegal flyer within an FRZ. Best then to only choose kits or scratch built models that have a good chance of completing at below the 7Kg figure. Seagull produce three different covering colour schemes for differing World markets. One is of a yellow Swiss Airforce with typical white cross on red background markings. The second colour scheme is for an American aircraft in white with red trim. That is very similar to my white and red Stearman. The third option is clearly for the European market and that is the one which Perkins say would be the one that would arrive in their next consignment. If I wanted either of the two other colour schemes, the order would have to be processed as a "special" and delivery would probably take several months. This third colour scheme depicts an aircraft flown to winning place in the 1936 Olympic Games aerobatic championship flown by the outstanding Romanian pilot, Alex Panapa. Following his successful win, the aircraft was transported across the Atlantic UNDER a German Zeppelin airship! Papana went on to campaign the Jungmeister across the US for many years until it was severely damaged in a landing accident. It appears the aircraft was landed upon by another aircraft! Left for scrap, the air frame sat against a fence for years before it was recognised for its historical significance. Restoration followed before it was eventually placed in a museum. Papana in later years suffered from depression leading to him abandon his car in the desert then wandering seventeen miles from the vehicle before committing suicide by taking a poisonous substance. A very sad end to a World acclaimed pilot. My model will therefore be a Papana example and will come in a white base colour scheme overlaid with silver at the front of the fuselage, red and white checker on the tops of the wings, red strips on the underside and prominent Olympic five ring logo on the tail fin and rudder. I`d quite like to have seen a German military version with black crosses and the dreaded Swastika political symbol on the rudder. I could strip off all the pre-applied Ultra cover but I`ve no plans to do that.... Here then is a video of an electrified version of the Jungmeister and also a PDF of the build manual. I look forward to the arrival of the kit and will post here again as I begin assembly. Flying my Electric Powered Seagull Bücker Jungmeister ARF Jungmeister PDF Mike
  5. With Seagull kits now well and truly established in my model collection with a Stearman, a Fly Baby and a Miles Sparrowhawk built recently, I just couldn`t resist the 72" Gypsy Moth. A Youtube video of an identical Gypsy made that resistance impossible. Rob had a kit delivered from Perkins in just a couple of days. This video shows an identical model being flown in the Australian Outback. The model flies wonderfully in the hands of an experienced pilot. The video alone sealed the deal and I`ve had a great time assembling this enigmatic and charismatic model. I had no constructional issues with it at all. Highly recommended and in my opinion, probably the best Seagull model I`ve yet been involved with. Definitely a Five Star job. Note how "Gypsy Moth" has been corrupted in translation to Vietnamese and back. "Gispy Moth", Ho, ho! Gypsy Moth by Seagull Models - YouTube I`ll use the term "assembly" because that best describes the action needed for completion to flying state. Its not difficult at all with all the parts fitting well and with good covering applied. Weight and balance experience with the Stearman had me immediately move the Gypsy servos as far forward as possible with substitution of the then too short, 2mm mild steel push rod wires being changed for four lighter and longer carbon fibre rods. Believe it or not, the steel rods weighed three times as much as the carbon replacements. I`d encourage any builders of Seagull kits to as a matter of course to also substitute carbon rods in place of the overly weighty kit supplied mild steel rods. That really does help when it comes to finally balancing the model. A couple of ounces saved at the tail end doesn`t sound much but that equates to a six ounce ballast saving at the front end. This modification is one that I`m also going to retro apply to the Stearman which has a very significantly heavily constructed tailplane and makes obtaining a decent Centre of Gravity a hard fought thing. The Moth tail feathers by comparison are of a sensible weight. Combined with the forward servo move, carbon push rods and disposing of the heavy "Fly Baby" type tail wheel assembly has meant that just the OS 91FS up front, a heavy 16x8 composite Master Airscrew prop and the cowl provide enough nose ballast to have this model balance perfectly for an "out of the box" C of G to be obtained. Its not often that that occurs! That said, the final and finished all up weight is 11.2Lb, some five ounces heavier than the manufacturers stated figure. When selecting a kit, weight becomes important as we fly within a 7Kg limited Flight Restriction Zone. I`ve learned that a manufacturers quoted airframe weight is often miles off the truth. I tend to add a couple of Lbs to the figure to get a reasonable idea of what the finished model weight is likely to be. If it comes out at over 7Kg, then building such a heavy model for local use is a complete non-starter. Such weight factors materially now emphatically dictate the kit or scratch built models I now choose. Sad but enforceably true! The assembly of the Moth follows typical Seagull kit practice. Once you have put together one of their kits and learned the simple methodology, they all follow the same construction pattern. The instruction manuals provide sufficient detail but sometimes the magnifying glass has to come out. Images lack density of pixelization which can make some detail spotting a bit of a head scratch. All parts are of high quality but generic "Fly Baby" type tail wheel units often find their way into several different kits in an inappropriate fashion. A home made bent wire skid attends to that matter as well as trimming a couple of ounces off the tail end of the model. The vac formed generic plastic pilots were nothing short of a joke. Their appearance would suggest they were produced as drivers of a bob sleigh! A re-paint had them looking like 1930`s civilian pilots and rather more suitable for the application. Windshields were another small item that required some modification to make smaller and more in keeping with that found on the full size aircraft. As previously said, rudder and elevator wire pushrods were removed and carbon rods substituted together with a forward servo move. Adhesive decals registration letters were cut from the supplied sheets and carefully applied to the model individually. This avoided having to handle a number of letters as one large and unco-operative sticker and greatly reduced the amount of clear plastic decal material between the letters. I`ve grown to hate the appearance of un-necessary clear decalage material which spoils the appearance of the model and shows every air bubble or defect under the excess plastic. Careful dimensioning and marking out though is required if you wish to keep decal excess down to a minimum. The inter-plane struts were square edged, clumsy and covered in inappropriate Oracover Cub Yellow. I removed the covering, sanded off the remains of the Oracover and rounded off leading and trailing edges. Two coats of epoxy resin were applied, left to cure, flatted down to a smooth finish before being given a couple of varnish coats. The effect brings it into line with the full sized aircraft. This Moth kit has some nice decal touches....... namely the DeHavilland Stars either side of the fuselage and also two large Moth stickers on each side of the rudder. Such greatly detailing adds to visual model credibility. The glass cloth cowl is well made and finished. Holes of irregular shape can easily be cut into it using hole saws or by chain drilling to link up the drilled holes. Rough edges are easily smoothed using a small power rotary sander, a quality smooth cut file and P280 sand paper. The top gloss paint coat though, has been applied over a non flatted colour coat and is easily separated when using masking tape. Use only the low tack masking tape on these cowls. The flat tread profile kit wheels have been changed for balloon type wheels of similar size. Again that adds to the credibility factor. The OS91FS motor has been upright installed without difficulty. The standard exhaust exits on the starboard side of the cowl. I could have inverted the engine but I saw no point. Upright is perhaps more practical at the flying field. Plenty of air-draft has been cut into the cowl with full glow plug access and viewing of the throttle linkage has been afforded. Internally the fuel tank floor has been raised 30mm to bring the tank up to carburettor spray bar level. A 2600NiMh batter suitably wrapped and fuel proofed now lives below the tank on a removable plate. If needed at a later date, the plate, tank and battery can be removed from the model as one complete module in a couple of minutes. That is very useful if you have fuel issues at the flying field. Some modification to the front end of the removable fuselage top combing has been required to allow the top rear end of the tank to enter that section. The throttle servo tube and wire also run up from the low mounted servo and has require a little relieving to allow that to occur. Mods within the combing section are small and discrete. As this model is a sport flyer and not a Nationals winning full blown scale model, it does not concern me that the exhaust is visible or that other none scale features have occurred. Practicality has over-ridden aesthetics. Flying wires are easily rigged using crush crimp tubes, fishing trace wire and clevis type turn-buckle adjusters. Each flying wire took about five minutes to construct and again the additional detail adds to model ambience. I suppose I`ve spent about a hundred hours "assembling" this model which includes making mods to suit my own taste and needs. The kit retails for about £356 but if you look for or ask a seller for discount, this is frequently available. Model kit selling is a competitive game. The near new OS91FS came to me for £165 and pre-used servos came from Rob`s best used servo draw at reasonable prices. I used one and a half twin syringe five minute epoxy packs from Tool Station and about 25ml of CA from the same source. Both great products at best prices. Add to the final tot up a 2600NiMh battery for less than a tenner and your choice of six channel radio receiver for what ever price you can find one. A 16x8 Master Airscrew came for £15. Everyone`s own final build costing will be different dependent on the type of equipment you choose. So a few final points. Five Star quality model of nice shape, appearance and general presentation. Ease of build. Experienced and knowledgable. Not for a beginner who would struggle with details and apparent complexity. Note a real need to keep these Seagull kit productions as light as possible at the tail end. Substitute carbon rods to help with that requirement. Move servos right forward when you install them. It saves a lot of extra work when you find the model is tail heavy and have to tear it all to pieces to then have to shift the servos forward! The kit has a nice parts goody pack which includes nuts, screws, washers and bolts together with a 14oz fuel tank, engine mounts, electric conversion kit, wheels and tyres, decals, control horns and mild steel control pushrods. Note that you will probably want to re-paint the generic kit pilots make look half decent and also have to cut the windscreens down to a scale size. Value for money? Definitely good. Try scratch building a similar model for what this one cost. Include the price of Oracover which isn`t exactly cheap stuff. The end result has pleased me greatly. As said previously, this is the best Seagull kit I`ve yet built. No trouble at all. All done and dusted and awaiting test flights once the good weather returns. Mike
  6. Earlier
  7. Rob at Avicraft managed to get a kit delivered in time for Christmas. It came in a whopping great box full of goodies. I was well pleased. The core build progressed rapidly until I hit the first of several issues. Then the trouble started.... 1. Three rear cabane struts and only one port front one was included in the kit. I was forced to make up a temporary substitute until Rob could get Perkins to open up another kit and cannibalize it for the part I needed. The replacement strut was sent by post to me immediately but that too was incorrect. In frustration I drilled new holes in the replacement offending part and once again Perkins were be informed. 2. The aggravation really cranked up after the model was built up. The tail-plane unit which measures some 30"/770mm in length was noted by me as being noticeably heavy straight out of the box. I also noted servos were installed rearwards in the fuselage directly under the rear pilot. In my bi-plane experience, servos are usually installed right up front roughly on a line with the leading edge of the lower wing. I continued with the build trusting that Seagull had this matter cracked. Alarm bells began again when I marked up the CofG 100mm rearwards of the leading edge of the top wing having installed batteries, engine and cowl. Lifting the model saw the tail wheel stay well and truly on the table. Odd I thought. Having previously worked on full sized Stearman aircraft thirty years ago, I always understood the C of G on a Stearman was derived by initially horizonally leveling the fuselage longitudinally. Then a vertical a vertical line would be extended at 90 degrees from the horizontal fuselage datum upwards at the leading edge of the lower wing. A plum bob hung from the top wing was aimed at the lower wing leading edge. This defined on the top wing the aircraft C of G. With care, the method was fool proof. That is how I`d always check a Stearman if it came to us for a Star Annual 3 year tear down and overhaul. On this model I slopped 1.3Lb of lead shot encapsulated in an epoxy/silica/cotton fibre slurry mix into the lower front edge of the cowl and let it cure over night in front of a blower heater. Next morning, I refitted the cowl. Lifting the model at the 100mm mark on the top wings still left the tail wheel in the deck. Cussing the designer madly, I decamped to Rob for advice. Before I left home, I cut another 1Lb of lead from my roll of roofing flashing and took that with me to the shop together with the model. At Avicraft, the model was bumped up on Robs counter. Rob soon had a handle on the nature of the problem. Heavy tail-plane and aft fitted servos. I dumped the 1Lb sheet of lead atop the engine cowl to demonstrate how much lead was needed to attain the manufacturers stated CofG position. What!!! 2.3Lbs of lead dead weight! You must be joking. Somebody is having a laugh!! Dear old Barry and Doug arrived in the shop and the matter was further discussed. Rob got on the phone to Geoff at J Perkins and we also looked at the RC Universe site to see what other builders of this model suggested. One post said the model Cof G was crazily and and excessively nose heavy. Rob and Geoffl recalculated using a similar method I had used on my little SFM Se5A. We re-calculated the C of G to be an inch further aft that stated in the Seagull manual, unscrewed the servos and moved them forward. It became patently obvious that the servos would have to be moved forward and wire tail end push rods extended. I felt my patience slipping. As Rob and I lifted the model with our fingers on 125mm marks under the upper wing tips, to our joy, the model balanced sensibly. That position equates to balancing directly under the main spar of the upper wing. The 125mm mark is also set at the leading edge of the lower wing. Something I need to do before this model is test flown. I must double check that prior to first test flights. Needless to say, the 1Lb sheet of lead became and unused dead weight and I couldn`t be bothered to bring it home. Now left in Robs care! My sincere thanks to Rob and others for helping solve this conundrum. One thing is certain, as agreed, I`ll be mailing Perkins (who were highly concerned at this development) and recount the whole saga. Young Ollie at Perkins says they speak to Seagull about an kit issues and this saga is certainly something they should know about. 3. The tail-plane on this model IS excessively heavy. Note well. 4. Grub screws on the wheel pant collets require replacing with cap screws in order to get them properly tightened. Otherwise they slip and the spat rotates around the axle. Yes, I did put a flat on the axles! 5. The sprung oleo legs are not well made. A tremendous amount of toe in and toe out occurs torsionally. This could well cause tracking difficulties on take off and landing. Again Seagull need to be told about this problem. 6. The starboard elevator outer snake was badly mis-aligned with the control wire exit slot at the rear of the fuselage. It took me half an hour of buggering about to get that control wire push-rod to make an appearance at the aft end. 7. The ply inter-plane struts whilst made from quality material were painted orange rather than red. I had to cover them in the appropriate shade of Oracover in order to match the red trim on the rest of the model. Similarly, the rudder appeared to be a differing shade of red to the rest of the trim on the model. This is due to the rudder only being covered in red film whilst the remainder of the red on the model was applied over the base white covering. 8. The epoxy glass cowl is spray finished to a high lustrous red over white gloss paint. That`s nice..... BUT but the cowl is pathetically thin. Rob suggested I lay another layer of 200gm/square metre e-glass within the cowl to beef it up. In its ex-works state, I`m sure the cowl would have split soon after a couple of rough landings. 9. The makers C of G position is 25mm too far forward and build instructions need amending as does the servo plate cut out positions. In addition, longer push rod piano wires for the elevator and rudder linkages are needed. What perhaps surprises me most is that this Stearman kit has been in production for quite a few years. RC Universe forum posters have noted some issues including the wayward C of G position. One has to ask? Hasn`t anyone had a moan about similar issues to the ones I`ve experienced and why have not Seagull modified the kit to improve the situation? As readers of this thread might appreciate, the kit build turned out to be a minor nightmare. Other than the above recounted issues, the kit was good to build but requires and advanced builder experience to complete successfully. It certainly isn`t a beginners model. I don`t think I`ve been harsh about this kit build. It`s 98% good but the remaining 2% has been rather un-satisfactory. I`m now in the process of cutting out cowl material to enable the silencer to poke out through the bottom. Then the model is near finished and only requires decals to be applied. More details in due course. Mike
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  9. Need now satisfied via eBay. A Sullivan Super DynaTron, little used for a fair price and saving me £50 or thereabouts on a retail new in box unit. Good enough for me! Now I need my Stearman kit to go on the end of it!! More Christmas expense.... Mike
  10. This re-build has progressed quietly as time allowed. Only the installation of a pilot and two cockpit screens together with battery, Rx and a little ballast are now needed to see completion. Air-frame numbers will also be added in due course. Its been a fun little project with the model now looking rather better than it did. Perhaps the worst part was restoration of the glass fibre cowl which was split, battered and bruised. This cowl glass fibre actually accepted epoxy and glass repairs and the physical bond between old and new materials formed a decent bond. On other cowls, I`ve not been so fortunate. Images tell a thousand words. I`m quite pleased with the result and look forward to flying it when the summer weather returns.
  11. My wimpy little yellow and black Turbex starter is unlikely to be strong enough to start a 180FS size motor. I need something with a bit more grunt. Does anyone have a large (preferably geared) powerful unit surplus to requirements that might be suitable? Worth me asking. Thanks guys. Mike Kennedy 01883 625406
  12. On advice from Martin Wood, I`ve just ordered an onboard programmable glow plug activation unit which will be powered by a separate NiMh cell. This permanent fixture allows plug power for start up and also whilst slow flying with the engine running at slow speed....in other words it keeps the glow plug alight at low throttle openings which is when the engine is most likely to flame out. I see that as additional security when on the landing circuit. There is nothing worse having an engine stop at the wrong time! This Stearman will cost nothing less than £650 to get flying so its an expensive investment to risk. Having a powered glow plug unit aboard seems like sensible insurance against a potential motor stoppage. Here is the link to the RCD3007 unit I found on eBay for £23.RC Remote Glow Plug Starter Igniter RCD3007 With Alarm Nitro Engines Planes Cars I`d be interested in comments from anyone who has used this or a similar unit on their own model(s) Mike
  13. Putting the cart before the horse, I bought a two flight only, used SC180FS complete with a nice pair of engine bearers from an eBay seller for £210 delivered. That`s about a £120 saving from buying new. I couldn`t let such a low time engine slip through my fingers. Images below. As you can see, the unit is almost unmarked. As regards the Seagull Stearman kit itself, that is on the slow boat from Vietnam and expected to be in stock with J Perkins at West Malling on 23rd December 2019. Delivery before Christmas seems unlikely. At least that gives me further time to accumulate the necessary and expected costs of more than £300. It will be a nice New Year present all be it an expensive one. Pleasingly, I`ve ordered through Rob at Avicraft. Mike.
  14. Here it is in beautiful condition. Its hardly used and came with an engine bearer set. Mike
  15. I like these Seagull kits. They are very complete and fly well. They are excellent value for money and you would be hard pushed to build from scratch at the price. For speed of construction and with the core parts built and covered, they make a good choice for a time limited constructor. Now under my belt are the two other Seagull kits I`ve already built, namely the Bowers Fly Baby monoplane and the now out of production, Miles Sparrow Hawk. The big 72" Stearman pulled at my heart strings so I now await delivery which is likely to be after Christmas. Presently the kit is on a slow boat from Ho Chi Min City, Vietnam. A two flight only, used SC180 FS which shares the same crank case dimensions as a 150 has been sourced for a couple of hundred pounds from eBay. This should power the model well and I decided on this power route as this model needs an appropriate sound track and the costs of buying one of the electric 4-Max 6366-270 motors, a 90a ESC not to mention stumping up for something like a 10S, 6000mAh Lipo pack nearly doubled the cost of the build bill. As it stands with the reasonably priced SC180 and the cost of the kit, that alone equates to around £520 with servos, battery and receiver adding to the cost. The 180 route appeared to be the most economic way to proceed. The two attached images depict this Seagull model. Sadly the original full sized Red Baron Pizza example together with one other example which formed part of a four aircraft display team in the US, is no more. Two of the team collided during an airshow with both pilots being fatalities. I`ll add to this thread as things progress. Mike
  16. Near new SC180FS unit bought last night via eBay. Shame I could`t afford a Saito R3! Mike
  17. Date. 28/11/2019. Guys, Does anyone have a good used 150/180 or similar size four stroke nitro engine they wish to sell? Contact me on 01 883 625406 if you have one. Thanks. Mike Kennedy
  18. The Sparrow Hawk is 99% finished now. Just the screen to glue into place. That has been left as the last job due to its vulnerability. The covering standard is not quite as good as the Fly Baby monoplane but some iron work has cured the majority of the faults. The revolting turquoise stripes on the underside of the wings have been removed. In there place yellow Oracover Cub Yellow replaces them as a perfect match. An additional stripe now runs from the underside of the wing leading edge to the wing trailing edge under the fuselage and completes an all over continuity of colour from one end of the fuselage to the other. Definitely a visual improvement on the original nasty turquoise nastiness. OK, the registration letters are applicable to a red and silver Chiltern Monoplane and the model kit yellow and silver colour scheme is a complete red herring. The six original aircraft which left the factory in 1935 were all painted a cream colour and registration letters are very different from this Seagull kit rendition. So be it. I can live with this. Its the overall impression that counts. The build is easy enough. Its definitely for an experienced builder. A novice would struggle with it. The landing gear trousers and the cowl are made from thin wall glass fibre and epoxy with a two pack paint finish then having been applied. The end result is more than passable. Costs. £189.88 inc delivery from Leeds Model Shop. A further £140 spent on motor, ESC, a couple of props, 4mm gold tubular connectors and shrink wrap. Add to that the costs of the Rx, Rx battery, five servos, four assorted servo/y-leads/switch etc. The model has an identical power train to my No 1 Ultra Stick being fitted with a 420Kv motor from 4-Max. A 70a ESC without UBEC controls motor power. A separate stand alone 2600mah NiMh battery is fitted for receiver and servo functions. With the 4500mAh Lipo fitted well forward and with the ESC mounted on the motor frame, the RX battery sits just forward of the CoG position and perfect balance has been achieved with no effort at all. So the model is ready to go. Flying field conditions are muddy and the winter temps are presently low. I suspect I`ll keep this model back for the 2020 flying season. More news on the flying once conditions improve and gives me a little more enthusiasm. Mike
  19. Ye ha! Got one!! The Seagull Sparrow Hawk 63" kit is certainly a rare bird presently in the UK. (12/11/2019) Rob told me that J.Perkins currently show non availability with no delivery date being advised. Much as I`d liked to have bought through Rob as a preferred, known and trusted supplier, not to mention pushing as much of my business as possible in his direction, this time I had to resort to an internet search to locate a supplier who physically had a kit on his shelf. This time Leeds Model Shop came up with the goodies. With post and packing, they relieved me of £189.89 to conclude the deal....never be frightened to ask for free postage! The price is competitive and I`d not be able to source one for any less. I now have to decide what to power train to install in this model. I/C or electric? I seem to have a pile of .61, .75 or .91 two strokes kicking around, not to forget an OS .91 Surpass four stroke which is earmarked for my Fly Baby bipe. I could also snatch either a 360Kv or 420Kv PO5065 electric motor from either the No 1 Ultra Stick or the newly acquired Seagull Fly Baby monoplane. I really don`t want to do that as I`d then loose the use of one of these two fully flying and very well sorted models. I`ve been attempting to standardize electric motors, LiPo and ESC units across my flying collection so that components can easily be swapped between models. The purchase of another 360 or 420 motor and 70a ESC would fit well into my electric motor stock holding but another quality 4-max motor and ESC would set me back another £135 including carriage. What to do? At this moment, I`m undecided but the cleanliness of electric power appeals from a purely practical standpoint. I/C power though is great fun but I struggle badly humping flight boxes and fuel around and getting down on my hands and knees causes me pain and misery. Having all those two strokes around for no additional cost would save me the £135 cost of buying more new electric gear into stock. The model kit is due here tomorrow so my Christmas has come early. Watch this space. Mike
  20. Hi Guys, After nearly a couple of years of flying now having returned to the hobby after an absence of some forty years later. Boy, did I find the whole game had changed. I needed to get into a serious learning curve! So what did I struggle with? New fangled 2.4 radio gear and electric power plants. I found myself totally out of my comfort zone. OK, the radio gear was fairly easily overcome but electric motors, UBECS and LiPo batteries were completely outside my knowledge library. To begin to bridge that gap, I resorted to taking advice from George Worley at 4-Max. I`m glad I did. George bent over backwards to sort out my initial needs. Telling him I intended to work my way back into the hobby with a Hanger 9 60" Ultra Stick, he immediately worked out that I needed a PO5056-420Kv motor, a 60a ESC, 5a UBEC and a minimum 6S LiPo of 3700mAh capacity running a 15x6 prop. That is the combination that many people saw me practice for and gain my A-test with in May 2019. George later further specified a similar 5065- 360Kv motor, 70a ESC and 6S 4500mAh Lipo for my Dancing Wings Fokker Tri-Plane. As it transpired, that 360Kv motor soon transferred to the Ultra Stick to provide faster acceleration and the ability to make use of the greater torque which offered the increased ability to swing a larger propeller. The 420Kv motor taken from the Ultra Stick then transferred to a Seagull Fly Baby monoplane where fast flying really wasn`t anything like so important. Gradually then, I began to learn something about correct power unit selection. So how does the often viewed specification seen on some out-runner cases apply to what you might see on a 4-Max motor case? As an example, if we examine the 4-Max PO5056 series motors discussed above, we can learn that the 50 refers to the metric diameter of the motor case, which in this instance equates to 50mm. The 65 refers to the motors` 65mm case length. The 360Kv or 420Kv refers to the motor performance. All this is far better explained in the link to the 4-Max site below. I certainly find the explanation found in the link to be most useful as indeed I hope it may also be to fellow club members who like me, might be struggling to understand the technicalities of electric power applications. Please take look.Microsoft Word - Working out the power train for electric aeroplanes - Version 1.2.doc - Working out the power train for electric aeroplanes - Version 1.0.pdf Mike
  21. The Tiger Moth re-cover and the Fly Baby bi-plane projects are presently stalled due to non availability of further supplies of Hobby King 115 Solid Silver covering film. This is obviously highly frustrating...I suppose I should now be making some new cabane and interplane struts for the little Se5a. I regret to say I put the model on the roof of the Peugeot van thing I use to transport the models. Annoyingly, I later opened the electric garage door with the inevitable result....crunch, squash, graunch! So what is next? Liking the Seagull Fly Baby 69" monoplane, Rob supplied me with a kit and it built quickly and easily. OK, the port wing was warped so that had to be replaced by Perkins but with a new wing fitted, the model is a peach to fly. On the basis of that, I`ve decided to build the 63" Seagull Sparrow Hawk. Here are a couple of links to the model.Seagull Sparrowhawk (61) (1.6m) Preview Preview 5:58 Seagull Sparrow Hawk Maiden 20 June 2014 More on this kit once I`ve got one in my hands. Mike
  22. Guys, I tripped over James Hollands web site this evening. James, as many will know is a terrific TV presenter of World War 2 related programs and has an amazing ability to explore and capture little known facts relating to the conflict. His interest in this period of history goes back many years and incredibly has managed to interview many of the participants....in fact I`m quite taken aback by the number of interviews he conducted. Almost my entire evening tonight has been spent browsing his site. What he has achieved is an outstanding record of anecdotal evidence gleaned, for instance, from the last surviving Battle of Britain pilots. This includes the enigmatic, charismatic Bob Doe and the quietly spoken Tom Neal to name but just a few. By James own admission, the site is a bit rough round the edges, but that matters not one jot. The contents are fascinating, typo and recording errors included. In no way do they diminish his efforts. So here is the link to the site. I hope many of us will view it because it opens a very fresh view on how we might view the Second World War. If you really want to explore the dynamics of how to shoot down an enemy aircraft, then viewing the Tom Neal interview will leave you astounded. His views on Leigh-Mallory, Keith Park, Hugh Dowding, Sholto Douglas and Douglas Bader are very firm and he doesn`t mince his words. I can`t recommend the site highly enough. James Holland web site Griffon Merlin Forum Mike K
  23. About three weeks ago, Rob Newman sold me a fairly ancient 48" Tiger Moth complete with servos and an SC 30 FS motor. It was thought to be a Pilot kit. Finished in war time yellow and dark green training colours, the model appealed to me so I bought it. Some of you may have seen it hanging from the ceiling in the shop. The Tiger was in reasonable condition if a little dog eared and faded in places. It was a sweet little thing and I just had to have it. As the coverings were so faded, embrittled and flat, I`ve elected to strip it down, make any required repairs and generally re-life the model. The core of the model was quite sound with just a couple of broken wing ribs needing attention. Removal of the former covering glue has been the biggest issue. Most of it has come off by sanding and then attacking with acetone on a rag. Recovering is a little delayed due to Hobby King not having a supply of their 115 Bright Silver material. A similar covering frustration currently exists with my big Fly Baby bipe build which also uses 115 as a core material cover. The 115 is on back order with indications being that it will be back in stock towards the end of October 2019. Extra edging has been applied to most flying surface peripheries in an attempt to alleviate the "starved horse" effect caused by covering sagging and creasing between high and low points. The shots of the rudder re-cover show what I`ve done in that respect. Using the material I have, the fuselage and tail sections have been re-covered. The colour scheme will be that of the silver, red, white and blue example owned by the Shuttleworth Collection. A few images here to show the progress to date. More in due course. I think you will agree, this model is set to be a very pretty little number. Mike
  24. A quick progress update on the Flybaby. Tail feathers and fuselage have been partially covered and the top wing built and trial fitted to the cabane wires. So far so good. Hard points and mountings for that wing still remain to be constructed. Note the somewhat unusual main spar arrangement designed into the model. It is rather similar to that employed on the full size aircraft. Note the similarity in proportions to the Tiger Moth. One can`t but help think that Pete Bowers might of been slightly influenced by the Tiger Moth! A little off topic but as the Tiger Moth figures here, the little second hand Tiger I bought from Rob has now been stripped of its old faded and embrittled covering to reveal a model that only needs minimal rework to make good. The remains of the old covering are easily removed by light sanding. Once the big Flybaby Bipe is complete, the Tiger can be re-covered. It will probably assume the colour scheme worn by the Shuttleworth example. Sorry about the embedded plane here. Can`t work out how to remove it! Mike
  25. Quite by chance, I tripped over an old Pilot magazine on eBay which detailed the very aircraft that I`m in the process of building. This was in the August 1997 edition of the magazine. I`m pleased with this purchase as it gives a very good detailed insight into some of the finer modelling points and is likely to be helpful particularly in the later stages of construction. Images of the relevant pages have been added below. One of the things I found useful when the magazine arrived was having confirmation of the core colour scheme. Originally I thought it was white with blue trim. Now I`ve found the aircraft to have been silver and blue. Annoyingly, I`d already covered the fin, rudder, tail plane and elevators in white. It has all had to be stripped off in favour of the silver. I have half a roll of the Hobby King silver film in stock. This is sufficient to cover the fuselage but not the wings. Frustratingly, the current Hobby King listing shows the material as out of stock. I`m just hoping it will make a re-appearance in the not too distant future. The fuselage has had its cabane struts added and also the top decking. This part of the build was far from easy but at least it is done. Only the rigging wire hard points remain to be added before I can completely cover the fuselage. The going is rather bitty at present but the model progresses slowly. Certainly, it is my most ambitious project yet and will probably take another two months to complete. Mike
  26. Last night at the September 2019 club meet, the big Flybaby bipe build took an interesting turn. James took another look at my fuselage and became certain that my 84" version from the Eraldo Pomare/Nexus/Sarik plan was the same size as his one built some thirty years earlier. He recognized the designers name. He had earlier measured the wing span of his example and found it to be around 64". That is something like a 20" span difference when set against the dimension quoted on the plan. Placing my fuselage in his Volvo estate, he became even more convinced that my model was indeed the same size as his. Back home, I measured the fuselage length at 55" and then referring to the wing plan (not looked at in any real detail to date), I measured the wing span which came out at 64".....the same as James`s example. Scratching my head, I then realised that whilst two fuselage plans are shown, ie differences for the monoplane and the bi-plane, only a wing rib section was shown for the mono-plane but not a plan form for the extended winged monoplane version. Two and two eventually made four and it became obvious where the quoted plan wing span of 84" came from.....the mono-plane wings are some 20" longer than the bi-plane! A quick text to James leads us to conclude we now have the answer to the conundrum and that we both do have the same model from the same plan. That is indeed good news because my model has also been fitted with an OS .91 FS motor which is the same size as the one fitted to James`s model. As we know, James flies his Flybaby beautifully on a .91FS and my hope is that my rendition will fly in a similar fashion. We are both looking forward to seeing both models flying together. Progress on my model has been rather slow over the past couple of weeks. My spinal operation developed complications and I`ve been rather off colour. This affected my building speed and also my perceptive abilities. Thankfully, I`ve now sharpened up a bit but tire rather easily. A wire bender arrived from Robotbirds for around £12 and is capable of bending 4mmOD piano wire for the cabane struts and landing gear. Getting the bending radius of any bends takes a bit of practice but my technique is now developing. I must admit to dropping a couple of clangers with the fuselage. The head rest behind the pilot got placed about 2" further aft than it should have been. I`m blaming an anesthetic clouded brain during that part of the build. That stuff does hang around in the body and takes a while to burn out. To cut a long story short, I`ve had to hack into some of my previous work, remove the bulkhead and re-locate it in the right place. Now I can locate the cabane struts in the right place as well! The cowl has also progressed and fits the model reasonably well with a good clearance around the engine being obtained together with getting the throttle and choke controls working correctly. The main mixture needle valve control exits the cowl nicely on the underside with a long piano wire extension fitted. People have asked me why I didn`t invert the motor. I`ve two answers for that. One is that James installed his motor as a side winder and I just followed his lead. The other thing that influenced me not to invert was the difficulty of inserting the glow plug NiMh unit through the cowl. Yes, I suppose I could have remoted the connection. The fact that I`m more than just a bit incapacitated due to major sciatica in my right leg and back, caused me to shy away from having to operate on my hands and knees for starting and having to struggle to get the glow plug fired up with an almost unseen connection point. So a side winder my model also has become. A straight exhaust of flexi hose is needed in place of the slightly bent pipe supplied with the motor. Use of that pipe would have caused me to hack an unsightly hole in the cowl to allow the bent pipe to rotate as it is tightened up. I can see why Emi suggested I went the flexi route and remoted the exhaust canister to a more convenient location. Only two images on this occasion but will add more once I have something more tangible to show. Mike
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