Club Members shanemarsh28 11 Posted February 28, 2017 Club Members Share Posted February 28, 2017 Hi! Over the past week, in addition to rebuilding the Boomerang I have been building plane number 2 of the fleet! I chose a WOT 4 Mk2 (Nitro) and I've got a couple of questions about the ARTF kit that I hope you might be able to shed some light on. Compared to the Boomerang Kit which I've built two of now (as a result of a very minor crash), my overall thoughts on it so far are not great. I have no idea how they are in general but lets say I think they made my kit on a Friday! The covering is not great at all! Not sure if any of you have had the same issue but I have been busy with the iron sticking it all down and trying to remove as many air pockets between the balsa and the skin as possible. Happily at least nothing was missing from the kit. Not very encouraging to open the box and the first thing you see is bubble wrap wings! Anyways - my first question relates to the pull pull system for the rudder. Putting it bluntly, I don't think it will hold up to the job! The threads don't hold unless it's tightened up all the way (meaning no adjustment) and although I've now installed it as per the instructions (Including adding some CA on the crimp), is the cable not supposed to go through the brass clamp three times? I also see two holes (see pic). The only trouble is the clamp is not wide enough to pass the wire more than twice. It's holding tension and working but I''m not sure if it will pull apart in the air? 20170228_002501.jpg[/attachment] If anyone can explain also why there is a wooden elevator push rod in this kit? It took me 3 hours to get that in place because thy distruction manual said I should fit it after installing the rudders pull pull cables. The air went blue let me tell you! Please let me know your thoughts and if you can answer those two questions above that would be fab! PS: Anyone wondering about the engine trouble/deadstick and ultimate crash of my boomerang a week or so ago .. the engine trouble was caused because the fuel pipe had split where connects to the clunk. When I took the tank apart, the clunk had broken free! That will teach me for using the wrong sized pipe! Link to post Share on other sites
Club Members Bravedan 106 Posted February 28, 2017 Club Members Share Posted February 28, 2017 To crimp brass tube onto wire is never easy, and CA isn't great on brass tube where you cannot clean it well or on spring wire. I usually use a specially blunt pair of side cutters if I'm going to crimp but these days usually wick flood lead based solder inside the tube with a very hot iron. I only go back the once, no more. Link to post Share on other sites
Club Members Bravedan 106 Posted February 28, 2017 Club Members Share Posted February 28, 2017 Trying to think of the name of the tubing I use for glow fuel clunks, but failing! It's sold for that purpose (ignoring petrol of course which is different). I never ever use the supplied tube!! Link to post Share on other sites
Club Members Bravedan 106 Posted February 28, 2017 Club Members Share Posted February 28, 2017 If there is a lot of space for a Rx battery (you have not said what type but assume NIMH) I use Velcro on battery and location, and ALSO a well glued in velcro strap. I have seen people use double sided foam tape with just its own adhesive and that makes me cringe as batteries can get warm enough to weaken that adhesive. Are you using a switch? Why fill an area with foam? not needed. Link to post Share on other sites
Pilot Ben 28 Posted March 1, 2017 Share Posted March 1, 2017 Trust me Shane the crimp will hold up! Just to see how strong a setup really is I got my old Cougars rudder setup and it took my weight whilst suspended from a beam! It might also be worth reinforcing the u/c. Rods old wot 4's undercarriage came of all the time! It may just have been that model but I don't think Rod would repair something badly I use the cheapish fuel tubing from just engines or the super expensive Weston uk stuff. The just engines stuff is ok but wears out. The Weston stuff is mazing but you get what you pay for Any more questions re anything wot 4 or boomerang? B Link to post Share on other sites
Club Members shanemarsh28 11 Posted March 2, 2017 Author Club Members Share Posted March 2, 2017 To crimp brass tube onto wire is never easy, and CA isn't great on brass tube where you cannot clean it well or on spring wire. I usually use a specially blunt pair of side cutters if I'm going to crimp but these days usually wick flood lead based solder inside the tube with a very hot iron. I only go back the once, no more. Ahh! I didn't think to use solder. I will try that. Thanks for the tip! If there is a lot of space for a Rx battery (you have not said what type but assume NIMH) I use Velcro on battery and location, and ALSO a well glued in velcro strap. I have seen people use double sided foam tape with just its own adhesive and that makes me cringe as batteries can get warm enough to weaken that adhesive. Are you using a switch? Yes I am using a switch that I have now fitted. As it happens, when I checked the CofG the plane was so tail heavy I could balance the battery on top of the nose cone and it still wan'ts far enough forward. So what I've done is padded out around the fuel tank and it will sit on top. The wot4 has a catched door above the fuel tank i think should do a nice job of holding everything in. Trust me Shane the crimp will hold up! Just to see how strong a setup really is I got my old Cougars rudder setup and it took my weight whilst suspended from a beam! HAHAH! That's good to know. I'm going to solder it together just to be on the safe side but it's good to know it's strong. Just didn't feel strong when putting it together! It might also be worth reinforcing the u/c. Rods old wot 4's undercarriage came of all the time! It may just have been that model but I don't think Rod would repair something badly I did wonder about that too - only two screws? A hard landing would pull the pre installed captive nuts right out of the fusalarge. I was thinking of removing the film behind and bonding the metal undercarage to the bottom of the plane. The screws then just have minor support. I use the cheapish fuel tubing from just engines or the super expensive Weston uk stuff. The just engines stuff is ok but wears out. The Weston stuff is mazing but you get what you pay for Cool thanks for the tip! Any more questions re anything wot 4 or boomerang? Nope all good I think! I just need build a new wing for the Boomerang that came this week. (Sorry Steve, I tried to repair the damaged wing but it was far beyond my skills. So for the sake of £30 and a lot of grey hair I simply replaced it for new ). The wot4 is nearly ready to go. Just needs CofG, rates, failsafes and the things mentioned above sorting out and it should be good to fly Thank you all for your help! Link to post Share on other sites
Pilot Ben 28 Posted April 9, 2017 Share Posted April 9, 2017 Still all good, Shane? Link to post Share on other sites
Club Members shanemarsh28 11 Posted May 1, 2017 Author Club Members Share Posted May 1, 2017 On 09/04/2017 at 10:07 AM, Pilot Ben said: Still all good, Shane? Yes! Sorry for my late reply - only just seen. Despite my initial thoughts those brass clamps seem OK. Had to add quite a fair bit of weight to the front end though - found the kit to be very tail heavy. Anyways James very kindly maidened her for me a few weeks ago and I also had a couple of flights - really enjoyed how it flys. Looking for a third plane now . Not 100% sure what to get yet but thinking of a mid/low winger something like a Acro Wot XL with a nice 4 stroke in the front. Link to post Share on other sites
Club Members Bravedan 106 Posted May 2, 2017 Club Members Share Posted May 2, 2017 No such things as a nice model 4 stroke................. Link to post Share on other sites
Club Members shanemarsh28 11 Posted May 2, 2017 Author Club Members Share Posted May 2, 2017 Haha! I shall find out I guess at some point as I've never owned one but I do prefer the more realistic sound compared to the 2 stroke. Link to post Share on other sites
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