snakeyme 0 Posted September 11, 2012 Share Posted September 11, 2012 hi all, longtime no speak, if you all remember my old plane, the sunbeam, well as it turned out, upon take off and after all preps were done, it rolled stalled and crashed with only the electrics and engine salvagable and was found to be a build fault. So i went out and bought a second hand irvine tutor 40 mk1 with everything except radio and reciever, got that flying beautifully and half way through an almost perfect flight, i recieve a phone call, loose concentration and next thing, the whole front end is completely destroyed from a 50ft free fall to the ground, once again with only the engine and electrics to be salvaged. now next pay day, im getting the real flight simulator and gunna have some fun with that before i get the irvine tutor 40 mk2 as i have all the electrics and engine and ill be getting a 2.4ghz futaba transmitter and reciever to go with it as i really need to change to mode 2 for my next plane. Finally if anyone wants an os .28 maxi engine lemme know as i have 1 and have no need for it. Link to post Share on other sites
Administrators Rich 26 Posted September 15, 2012 Administrators Share Posted September 15, 2012 Bummer... I think Leon is the only person I have ever seen who can actually answer his phone and keep flying at the same time. I religiously leave my phone in the car when flying, I don't even want to hear it ringing... Shame about your planes mate Link to post Share on other sites
Club Members Bravedan 106 Posted September 16, 2012 Club Members Share Posted September 16, 2012 Mobile Phones a) Although mobile telephones operate on frequencies far removed from our model control frequency bands they are a major addition to the increasing background radio ‘noise’ that our equipment has to filter out. In addition, there is some evidence that there may sometimes be an interaction between mobile ‘phones and microprocessor controlled transmitters. b) Many mobile ‘phones transmit powerful signals regularly even when on standby and BMFA recommends that they are not taken into the pits area and especially not on to the flying area. Many phones also emit a powerful signal pulse when switching off, which is also something you may have to consider. Your radio equipment has a hard job to do filtering out background RF radiation and you could make it much worse with your mobile ‘phone. Link to post Share on other sites
snakeyme 0 Posted September 18, 2012 Author Share Posted September 18, 2012 yh thas a big mistake and a massive learning curve for me, i intend on getting a simulator before i get another plane (decided on the tutor 40 mk2), and im thinking about using a failsafe but i dont have a clue how they work with planes. also ill be getting a futaba 2.4ghz transmitter aswell Link to post Share on other sites
arun 0 Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 A simulator will help to some extent, but it is no substitute to buddy-boxing with an experienced pilot while you learn. The classic problems with simulators are wind (or lack of) and depth perception - ultimately nothing beats real stick time. Also, simulators don't talk you through good field craft, and flying safety. Re: failsafe - you must use these if you have one and all it will do is move one (or more) servos to a preset position on signal loss (it will not do any levelling, heading setting etc. so if you are pointing at the ground during signal loss...). However, neither 2.4Ghz or a failsafe will solve the problems you've described above Have you found a club in Southampton? The real key here is safe flying for everyone, especially the general (unsuspecting) public... Good luck, and don't hesitate to ask for advice if you need it!! Link to post Share on other sites
snakeyme 0 Posted September 19, 2012 Author Share Posted September 19, 2012 hi again, instead of buying a simulator, ive just bought a precendent trainer that needs recovering, i really need help with this so advice is definately needed, but i did buy the model for £10 and its a size 40 so i couldnt resist. ive started to take the covering off but ive hit a dead end with it as i would like to know the best way of getting the old covering off or if it would be worth me asking around if someone more experienced could do it for me but i would like to give it a go myself tbh. if someone could give a step by step way of doing it, i would appreciate it all. thanx Link to post Share on other sites
Club Members Bravedan 106 Posted September 20, 2012 Club Members Share Posted September 20, 2012 So, tell us what is happening, and what the covering now is. WHICH model? Presuming it is shrink film, for example, is it leaving the "glue/paint" on the wood? Exactly HOW are you trying to remove it? Why cannot you patch it from what it is? Where (legally) are you intending flying it? Link to post Share on other sites
snakeyme 0 Posted September 20, 2012 Author Share Posted September 20, 2012 i aint sure what the covering is but tried peeling it as some of it is loose and only the top film is coming off mostly, not leaving any gleu/adhesive on the wood at all, i dont know if i can stick the new film over the top but it all creased, torn and looks horrible. i aint too sure about the model of the plane, all i know is that its called hi boy precedent trainer. if i could just fit the new film over the old 1 after taking the creases out i would in a heart beat, but i honestly didnt think i could. Link to post Share on other sites
snakeyme 0 Posted September 20, 2012 Author Share Posted September 20, 2012 also theres a local farmer thas letting me use 1 of his fields to train myself in as the local club is just to far for me atm, you definately need a car to get to any of there club meets and fields Link to post Share on other sites
Club Members Bravedan 106 Posted September 20, 2012 Club Members Share Posted September 20, 2012 So if its not leaving a lot of coloured backing, then it'll cover again as long as its not fuel soaked/oily. You can lightly sand off the little that does stay. If there is some oil/fuel contamination but not much you could try talcum powder and leave for a week to soak it up out of the wood. Check inside the engine and fuel tank bay, too. If it is well soaked anywhere, move on and forget it, your £10 bargain will become an expensive time consuming and ultimately fruitless waste of time and effort! I said patch, as in clean to remove ANY trace of oil, cover the holes with an overlap patch, seal the edges with an iron, and shrink with a modelling specific hot air gun, not completely over cover, which is a BAD idea. There are LOADS of tutorials on YouTube so no point in reproducing here. Link to post Share on other sites
snakeyme 0 Posted September 20, 2012 Author Share Posted September 20, 2012 ive already managed to remove some of the covering that had oil over it, the wood below is clean, very clean, the engine bay isnt too bad either, managed to clean some grease off to find it almost perfectly clean underneath. I got some metallic green kwik cote and some light blue to recover it with so it should look good when its done, ill see if i can poste a pic of it when its all done and if i can a before pic (taken later on today) and see what u all think of the work done. Link to post Share on other sites
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