Bravedan

Server is back up.

Phoenix has now been offline for several days. This prevents updating, reloading of program, and multiplayer use.

An enquiry by another group member eventually produced a statement that it was down for "server maintenance".

Needless to say there is NOTHING on their website under "News", and nothing appearing in any obvious information transfer media.

Please Email Phoenix Support and ask why the server is down and how much longer it will be so. A one line EMail is sufficient!

Failure to do so will just concede and reinforce their willingness to leave it down or even possibly cease the service.

Some Phoenix functions (however not to my knowledge updates, but hey!) requires specific ports being opened, port forwarding. Presume you have this set.

HOWEVER, The Phoenix server(s) are down currently, have been for sometime today, as no-one has been able to log in to multiplay, and late yesterday, so its probably NOT YOU!!!!

As you say, the Calendar is now PDF, easy to download or look at with Reader, store, print, etc.

What are you trying to achieve?

Well I suppose you do have to be capable of finding software to install it. .   It has been on their website "forever", August 2016 for "L", and that added near nothing over the previous one six months before that!

Horizon Hobbies seem to have done their best to trash Phoenix Sim, not controlling the last major update to 5.0 and beyond at all effectively, not fulfilling their stated promise with regard Infintyscape, viz:-

 - 22nd June 2016"   YEA.........RIGHT................

And not adding models that they introduce across their ranges, which was the stated reason they bought it out in the first place, and is still proudly displayed on their website.

Anyway, if you have a version, there's no drought with regard getting the last issued program version from the website.

If anyone does not have a version at all then they are frequently sold on EBay, etc, etc.

HH make getting a replacement lead/dongle quite awkward, and no doubt get the reward they deserve, as Chinese versions are easily obtained.

You have to go back TWO FULL YEARS to the last official PLANE release, and that was effectively only a cheap rescale and skin of existing. The one before that was a much belated reintroduction of a long issued model they were unable to get working under the change to v5 plus.

What user made models have appeared are sadly almost exclusively not "models", they are Flight Sim, not RC Flight Sim. And even these "approved" issues are sometimes only too evidently thrown out the door with little or no quality control, an example being models with surfaces that move the wrong way (and never corrected!!)

I was a part of the original team's Beta testers up to v3, and more recently HAVE helped issue and tune models via other sources., so do know what is involved, what is practical and possible.

Lots of extra models are available as are extra flying sites, on a variety of unconnected websites worldwide, so there is no major difficulty adding to the std fare if a little effort is made.

OK, the batteries from Drone Junkie arrived today.    

Up till now I only had the single battery supplied with the quad, an EFlite 1S 500mAh 25C, and some 6 month old Nano-Tech intended (and bought) for the mCPX Helicopter, 1S 300mAh 45-90C.

The new batteries are MyLipo.de 1S 600mAh 25-50C.

Have just flown one of these, mostly circuits, few piros and a little hovering, until the LEDs started to flash end of charge warning (though quad still flying normally).

It managed 7 Mins 15 Seconds, with as near as makes no difference the same punch at the end as at the start.

MUCH better than the original Inductrix loaded with camera, vtx, etc, even with the 260mAh  35-70C flat format Nanotech I have been using..

Well, so far outside flying has been off the menu unless I want it disappearing off to go swimming across Europe, and my normal Indoor meets this week were off due Bank Hol (Mon, which we knew) and tonight (Tue, when we got let down as nobody arrived to unlock, so had wasted journey).

Might get a flight or two in a big area at school on Thurs after the boys car racing...................  but have been flying around the house FPV today on the 300's, and provided you resist the temptation to stick the nose down and go for it, when its actually quickly too fast for the space, it manages very well. Seems a little more prone than the std Inductrix to getting sucked against walls etc so concentration required to slot the middle of door frames, etc.

Got some "high power"  but same weight packs coming from Drone Junkie tomorrow...............

The video works well for a legal 25mW too, perfectly adequate picture even through two solid brick walls or upstairs through a floor and two walls. Like all HH product though, its NTSC only, so a self seeking VRX like mine on my headsets that can hop NTSC/PAL is best, unlike my expensive Black Pearl screen which is not only manual but has a stupid awkward menu system to change it. (When you kick it into submission it works OK, its just SO unfriendly to use!!)

No, not the Blade Inductrix, the Blade Inductrix Pro, or the Blade Inductrix FPV, nor the Blade Inductrix FPV Pro, but the Blade Inductrix FPV+.

Ye Gods.......................... 

This is "the red one", red canopy and props, OK??   

Is there room for yet ANOTHER Inductrix?  Well, after a few flights after getting one today, I'd have to say......................YES.   OK, it's not cheap, in fact compared to say the Eachine E010 and that series it's downright DEAR, nearer the price of a brushless 180/200, but it does seem to be a well sorted item with development work costing money that has to be recovered somehow.

So what is different about this one?

Well, firstly its a little larger.
It has significantly larger motors.
The frame is more cross supported to cope with rough treatment
It has three flight modes, the "new toy" setting being a mode that helps to maintain ALTITUDE while learning. (While a little disconcerting to an experienced user, I can see the usefulness of this to new FPV pilots, many of whom find height maintenance the hardest to visualise and learn)
It has a sensible bright rear LED that by default indicates the flight mode Green/Blue/Red, but can be set to one of five colours as a means to identify "yours" when flying LOS with others, or who has just passed you when FPV "racing", etc.

And finally................ it has "Meiow Mode".  If the quad is grounded upside down and not under the sideboard(!), it can usually be quickly and conveniently righted by de-arming and re-arming, when a violent short burst of power to two props will flip it back (usually!). No more (or many less) walks of shame, and very useful when flying with others and unable to recover till they stop. Obviously I'm such a good pilot I don't need this facility, but in the interests of testing for others, it's been given a few operations, just to see, naturally.

The std Inductrix, even when user modded with upgrade motors and battery was always a little minimal with low duration. The first Inductrix FPV was not much better duration/power wise. The larger size allows better power and duration.

The battery is now the same type of flat 'n wide format with larger connector size as per the mCPX helicopter, and sits edge on in the frame to avoid blocking the ducts.

It's actually 500mAh against the mCPX 300mAh, but I have been test flying the smaller 300 size and it has advantages of lightness for even better small space agility, yet still gives decent duration. It has one disadvantage though, in that Meiow Mode when the battery charge is full with the lighter weight can over flip it.

So far I'm quite impressed (as perhaps anyone ought to be at its UK price point!!)  It's nicely stable and beginners will love it, esp FPV beginners.

Me?  Well I like my RC models nervous, so a quad with such obvious beginner ability might be "dull", but setting the Tx rates to max available makes it a really good "groove on rails" machine that flatters your piloting skills nicely and overall its a fun machine.

More later once its had a trip outside and to a sports hall through the Hula Hoops!

Don't understand your problem. Their website files allow update from 2.5 upwards to v5. You always used to have to do it in stages, you can't jump over a stage.

From the website:-

Your stated (miss)quote on the Marauder is dated from the inception when they put inexperienced multi engine crew into it, not understanding or properly training them that it needed 100mph touchdown, and a lot were lost. They improved knowledge and training and later also extended the wings to help lower the landing speed.  It was quick, it was slippery, it was highly aerobatic. It was VERY highly regarded by its crews once into full on combat.

The Marauder ultimately had the lowest loss rate IN COMBAT of ANY American front line aircraft, and actually had a suberb record of getting its crews back. I do not know that specific case in photo but many came back with severe flak damage. The now famous one called "Flak Bait" survived over 200 missions and is preserved, has been stripped down for full resto but keeping its "worn" appearance!  When inspected it had received over 1000 holes in it, yet patched up and retuned to the fray it survived and returned its crews time after time after time.

Bearing in mind they ordered it in numbers straight from the drawing board in a panic with NO prototype, it was the bomber equivalent of the Mustang!

That plane wasn't falling out the sky, by superlative piloting and fast thinking to get it "trimmed" as best as possible, it was actually trundling along quite well at the time photographed.

Not funny, there are likely still five people trying to stay alive in that.

"Read" the picture instead of making a cheap jibe, it didn't happen just before the pic, no smoke, fumes, escaping fuel. Both engines pitched up and running under power. Pilot is balancing on the good aileron and the good half of the elevator.   His task is likely being made easier by the half elevator assisting resisting the left yaw.  He doesn't have arudder to help!

Must assume therefore its travelled a decent distance beyond the hit(s).

With both engines he can (has) created yaw and the half A & E are holding it level. Hope they made it at least back out of enemy territory to jump.  Not much chance for the pilot unless he lands it though. 

Proof the Marauder could take punishment...........

Climbing a Mountain, are they?

Nitromethane is an Oxygen liberator, it makes the fuel element of the mix burn more efficiently, More bang, more thrust.

Now I'll jump to the last question, a few engines are abnormally nitro sensitive, There used to be all sorts of internet fights over Just Engines products suitability for example. MY personal view was that they were covering a potentially poor setup with a cautionary limit.

Generally 10% is not normally regarded as high or requiring special adjustment, but some engines do not like higher percentages than that. For example the TT Redline Helicopter engines I use (and highly regard) have an extra compression reducing gasket provided for "high" nitro use. Never used one, never needed it, never had an issue, even up to 30%!!

SO, to answer that last question, I can't!!!  ............ c'mon be reasonable, I have no idea what engines you have other than the 35AX nor would I necc be able to say with certainty how they would run even if I knew the model and make as not knowing age, previous use/abuse, whether they have suffered lean runs, what temp they run due airflow (cowled) etc, etc, etc!! 

Is Nitro weather dependent? No.   But.............. it makes an engine work harder to produce more power, and if that engine gets too hot, just like any other use, naturally it could be damaged.  No surprise there.

As an aside, a couple of years back I was given four early 70's Enya engines, and after bench testing (on 20%), contacted the donator, who's comment on me saying that they worked excellently idling perfectly from the first spin (I NEVER flick start!) was to reply that they were probably too scared to do anything else!!

So, to summate, I think you need to try to generate a little more power and increase the pitch a little.

1. Use a higher nitro content, at least 10%. personally I would not try anything else till this done.

2. 11x3 is very low pitch, so when it is prop hanging it might not have the pitch "grip" to drive it out even if it does have the power (is it screaming or sagging, you don't say?). Once on the higher nitro content, try a 11x4 or 11x4.5

Fun Fly is much like indoor 3D, you need the ability to put lots of airflow over the surfaces when airspeed is near zero, so head for the largest diameter and lowest pitch the plane can cope with, consistent with it not losing grip in high alpha and of course prop hang. You are aiming for fast throttle reaction and lots of airflow from as low as possible in the rev range while not stifling the top end.

Now, I'm certainly not experienced on OS, in fact I have spent a lot of time very actively avoiding them, as I consider them over rated and over priced.

However, MY Cougar 2000 with an Irvine 39 (THE fun-fly competition used by most of the "names" a few years ago), runs on an APC 11x5, so their smaller 35 on 11x6 or 12x6???  REALLY!!??

It's an imprecise process, getting a prop right.

Firstly, what fuel are you using?

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_Alliance_GP7000

This was a very unusual form of failure and I suspect a lot of manhours are going at the problem at the moment. AFAIK a couple of RB211's did similar but that must have been 1970's

Neither donor engine for the components then redesigned to fit together is new, and the fleet of EA engines has done huge hours.

If you want rumour and conjecture and a measure of knowledge then PPRuNe (sic) is likely on it!

RR Trent had a fan blade shed which is a much more frequent occurrence.

Not due blade loss from hub, the whole fan sheared away, look Mum, NO hub!!

Also, for info, not the Rolls Royce Trent 900, Air France chose the Engine Alliance engine which apparently has a core from one engine manufacturer and a fan from another one.

Draw your own conclusions if this had any bearing.

20 mins run time, 5 to taxi and get up there, 5 to land if no hold due traffic............................and how long to re-charge??

For anyone following, I replied to Ben on the EFRacer/EXEtxtra by PM, Yes, I have both. Yes, I'm REALLY glad I have.

OK, simple talking over, demo time.       Necc explanation first though.  

I tried to find archive video of my various 2212-6T motored models, but could not quickly, Google would not let me into one of my accounts (BOO) , so yesterday Ivan filmed me flying the "Rasp" own design EPP delta (HURRAH!).

Now the Rasp is NOT the fastest of these models, as in its second iteration (rebuild after motor mount failed years ago, thread and comment buried in Flying Diary for 2016, do a search on "Rasp" to find), I could not be bothered with the air brakes.  These were flat plates which were servo operated out from either side of the Fus just behind the CG. When rebuilt I did nothing to smooth the airflow , the twin fins for example are 8mm EPP and square edged, so much more draggy!  (Stop wincing at the back!).

Anyway, attached is a small clip from yesterday, one pass, due file size EMail limit. This was with a two year old much used 2200mAh 3S. Bear in mind the conditions yesterday were erratic yet the Rasp cut through it all smoothly.  Probably a longer clip of the flight on EBay later if Ivan can find the time. (half second roll rate, etc).

Count the time boundary to boundary......................

Dave B Speed clip.mp4

Ben, the issue is not really the motor size, but is linked to the prop position. Pusher props are inherently much noisier than tractor. This follows into real world, the Piaggio Avanti P180 which comes in and out of BH sometimes is WAAAAAYYY noisier than anything else (It's turboprop but pusher twin). Props reflect noise forwards, as said above "chopping" the wing trailing edge. This is immutable and limits the sensible to how far they push the boundary!  (Piaggio have allegedly spent huge sums on trying the quieten the Avanti, bit like Porche spending 40 years making a rear engine car handle, when the answer was staring them in the bonnet)

People seem to think my Superfly and Rasp are quite fast and they only have this motor:-  

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Practical-A2212-6T-2200KV-Brushless-Outrunner-Motor-for-RC-Helicopter-AircraftUK-/162399956343

Lots of suppliers inc UK stock, just random picked this one. Not suggesting you choose it, but it works for me giving the best combo I can find of noise against speed in pusher ( or prop in slot) config. And cheap as chips.

Neither plane named above are quiet, though acceptable during mainstream times. DEF not for electric only days or after the watershed!!

Personally I think the days of the Radjet and its MPX progenitor the Funjet are well past, and yes I know that's a shame when you are part way through a build, but that's how it is!!

I'd aim for 250 - 300 watts MAX on 3S and have fun.

BTW, please please PLEASE do NOT launch it like a lot of the brain dead iggits on the Internet so your hand comes close to prop on follow through. SERIOUS crippling accident waiting to happen (and has lots of times!!). Hold a wing out of the prop arc and reverse discus throw, do not hold the fus!!!

BTW BTW, you mention Sevenoaks, but while less trees, they have the same height limitation issue, don't they?!

One of THE best fast planes is the HK/Dynam EFRacer and its higher powered newer model the EFXtra, and by comparison they are almost silent! Even the slower bog std EFRacer on only 3S (they can run 4S with a prop change) can out pace an Equaliser. What's more they are genuinely easy to handle, great fun and versatile, the Racer even able to do passable pattern aerobatic and slope soar well.

Said all I can say now, Good Luck!

Watch this...................

https://youtu.be/qwuY-YsCtOg

Sucked in yet????    !!!!!

MMMM, well, having gone the "how fast can you go" route several times over the years, inc getting as far as customising home wound epoxy potted and balanced large inrunners, a few comments generally first. Where do you intend to fly this plane?

1.The CAMFC site boundaries are quite tight/close, and there is that ever present height limit. A truly fast plane covers so much ground so quickly that you really don't get ANY decent running.

2. It is a noise sensitive urban site near school and housing and don't for a moment think that ultra fast high power pusher electric is acceptably quiet. Front prop pylon or hotliner shape is MUCH preferable and significantly quieter.

3.There is a point where operating at real speed at CAMFC becomes a problem rather than fun, as you are forever lifting and turning fighting to keep in bounds and not let the speed decay. The slightest issue and you will be WAY out of bounds.

The last super fast pusher wing of mine (triple spar FW Slipstream with above motor) was far too fast for the site and too noisy. If I lifted off suddenly there was a triple bounce echo off the trees, and, like a Jet Ski, it was an annoying high pitched howl. Note that any conventional noise test will not discover this issue, its a feature of the airspeed and the prop chopping the trailing edge, so I quickly "banned" it myself, the only sensible thing to do! The wing now has a much less powerful and lower revving motor, revs limited by a high pitch prop and part throttle use, still quick for the site but no speed demon now, more a fast cruiser, flies most of the time at half throttle or less, and carries FPV.

Now to your specific plane and planned spec.

A 1250kV motor is very low for an ultra fast wing, I would not contemplate less than 1800 (std Radjet is 1850) and I use 2200-2500kV.  The penalty of low kV is that you have to swing a bigger prop, and torque roll becomes a serious issue esp at launch. If you cannot accelerate quickly due this you will never reach the top speed possible as before it gets "onto the step" you will be lifting to turn or do a reversal. Don't think its an issue?  My Slipstream even with a small dia prop needed an appreciable amount of aileron held to counter torque not just at launch but also as speed rose above three figures. And it covered the boundary to boundary limits in well under two seconds.

Also, have you done the maths on the current needed against what the battery can TRULY deliver, not the mythical claimed "C", and how long you will get?  No way would I contemplate a battery as small as 1300mAh. I was running 2300mAh 60C/120C 10 seconds surge and that was minimal!

Have to say though that my biggest concern is that you are heading towards exceeding the practical capabilities of the site. In any event, you will get much more fun from a less aggressive and more controllable set up, they are great fun with ridiculously fast roll rates and in a flat spin but be careful of one from inverted as they really don't want to exit once in!

Sorry to be harsh, but what servo you run is for now the least of your concerns!!

BTW, my own design delta "Rasp" is a broadly similar but site capable and noise sensitive design and set up, and that has a 2212-6 2100kV Suppo with 6x5, 80A ESC, 2200mAh 60C 3S.

OK, so I use FrSky and they have sensors to connect to the battery pack balance port to feed back via telemetry. Other makes have similar, though usually more expensive. WIth my Horus on OpenTX telemetry can be arranged to provide an at a glance colour coded indication of battery state, overall AND per cell.

But what if you don't have a telemetry radio? Here's one way!

There are cheap small battery monitor alarms, self contained little units which plug onto the balance port. Some of these have adjustable voltage trip level (per cell) and are extremely loud.

Set correctly they provide early warning of pack depletion under in use throttle surges plenty early enough to position and land with no urgency, and can be heard over a great distance.

One very suitable unit is:-

https://www.banggood.com/G_T_Power-Voltage-Tester-Low-Voltage-Buzzer-Alarm-For-1-8S-LiPoLi-ionLi-MnLi-Fe-Battery-p-1136769.html