snakeyme

its southampton model flying club and there flying site is to far for me to get to due to no transport as they fly at beaulieu air field and im about 7-10miles away and i dont have a car atm, ive also filled in 3 applications to join tbh and still nothing.

i have tried joining the local club but they aint interested in replying to any of my 20 or so emails about joining there club. as for tubing for the exhaust, i meat if i was using a single tank for both engines, meaning running the tubing to join the exhaust to the tank. and oh, i didnt think mounting the engine normal way up or on its side was doable on a wing so thanks for that info. as for bmfa, yep i have bought some, but only very recently as i used to use a private farmers field to fly, i didnt think i wouldve needed it as i was the only 1 there but ive had to change locatio

hi martin, im curious s to how big is the rudder on a boomerang, meaning if it full length or is it just the size of the fin itself. the reason why im asking is becoz im wondering if it would be possible to attach a rear landing wheel which uses a pin drilled and glued into a rudder for steering as this would (i imagine) save alot of trouble with more linkages.

yh i will post the progress, tbh, thas why im thinking of adapting an old tutor 40 wing, purely so i can use the precedents own wing to fly it on a single engine and then when the time comes to fit a twin engine setup, all i have to do is switch the wings over and see how it goes. theses following features i know ill have to include though: 1.) wing mounted servos for the aerilons. 2.) servos mounted within the engines cowling for each engine. 3.) fuel tubing carried within the wings for the fuel and exhaust, which will be connected to a fuel tank mounted where the engine used to be hel

ive actually got an old tutor 40 wing that i maybe able to modify to accept 2 engines due to the stronger construction of the sub structure and the fact that it has a bigger area, i think this also means that it has a higher loading capacity but if im wrong please do correct me on that. what do you think about that as i dont have the fuse to the 40 aymore

thanx martin, that is certainly a purchase ill have to make soon

i think i may have just figured out how to do it, however theres a few options that i have in my mind, so ill share them and see what you think. first thing to mention is that the current engine mount at the front of the plane will be covered up to form a smooth front end no matter what the options are. option 1: use the current wings (which have a foam core), drill a series of straight holes to house carbon reinforcing rods to strengthen the wings, use my rotary tool to cut 2 holes in the wings to sit the engines in, build an engine carrying sub frame within these holes incorporat

yh thas me, i did but i had to get rid of my tank as my son is at the stage that hes pulling himself up on things to stand, the next pet im getting is a tarantula to sit next to my monitor on my comp desk. if u need advice though, im happy to give it to ya

hi all, is it possible to convert a high wing plane to a twin engined plane. this is what i mean: taking the engine off the front end of the plane and using balsa, cover the old engine bay by making a cowling and then getting a second same sized engine and making a mount for them both to be mounted to the wings. the reason why im asking is becoz id like to try it with my hi-boy precedent

true and i was only trying to help and as i have said previously when i was at the field, if it wasnt for the fact that i moved to southampton, i wouldve joined the club.

i have an idea for u all with regards for the money side of things. if say you have an auction, instead of taking cash with you, the winning bidder reserves the equipment until the next field day which they can bring the cash with them at that point and exchange cash and item then, saving the need to take cashon the club night.

engine problem solved. I had to use the main needle to lower the amount of fuel going into the engine so much so that its less than a whole turn from fully closed. This would certainly indicate an air problem as far as im aware, too much going into the engine and since ive changed the needle setting (again main needle and not the air bleed needle), the engine is starting and running alot better. Also i should mention that if i dont run the engine for a couple of days, it stiffens quite alot and the flywheel is also about a mm from the from of the engine if not slightly more.

stallion, i by no means, mean offence by this but how long have you actually been involved with models, whether its planes, helicopters or any other vehicle. Simple reason to why i ask this is because all of your advice seems to be based on research which throughout the world wide web, will be differential depeneding on different peoples opinions. I myself flew rc planes for 5 years before i came to a point in my life where i just couldnt afford to run the jets that i used to have and as such i went to nitro and petrol cars for 10 years until i was in a position to come back to my ultimate f

heres a question for all of you. How long have u been involved with model planes. What part specfically (if any) do you enjoy the most. Why do you do the hobby. Ill start it all off. I flew all types of rc planes for 5 years before taking a 10 year break and im now trying to get back into it. I love being able to safely take control of something that i would normally have to take ages to get near in the real world. The simple answer to why is so that i can spend some "me" time away from family life and beable to relax and let my hair down doing something i enjoy.

do u think i should strip the engine and take a look then hawk

the engine is a very old os maxi .40 fl or fp and is equipped with a 11x6 prop although its been run by a 10x6 all its life

although ironically, the engine has been like this since i changed the prop, thas why im thinking of increasing the pitch

no offence stallion but it is definately not idle needle, its had a tuning by someone who has been dealing with model engines for nearly 30 years. Also the last time i flew a plane properly was 10 years ago and ive only just started getting back into the hobby (a few months ago) and yh im out of touch with it. Ive never said that i the reason is purely as a precaution for crowds with the throttle cut off, it is however the main reason as id rather destroy a plane than kill someone. Also as we all know, when ur trimming ur plane during basic taxi'ing, that u can easily send a plane

oh yh, i never thought of that as i leave the carb at half throttle as the engine doesnt like to start with anything below that and infact cuts out at about quarter throttle (no matter how much i play with the needle setting) plus i have my tx set for total closure of the carb on the trimming control, this is simply a precaution if something goes wrong, that way i can stop the engine if i need to. For example, if during take off (and theres spectators at the time), the plane vears off towards on-lookers and i cant correct the direction in time, i can simply cut the throttle to shut the eng

i found out what i done wrong and its actually quite a rookie and stupid mistake. i had the pipes connected and configured incorrectly lol: i had the exhaust pipe at the bottom of the tank and connected to the carb. i had the filler (3rd) pipe connected to the exhaust and at the top of the tank. and finally, i was using the "carb" pipe for filling the tank. ive corrected this now and ill be test filling the tank later on today to see if is worked, this is the new configuration: carb and filler pipe at the bottom of the tank and next to each other (the carb pipe connected to t

hi all, i just fitted my precedant with an 11oz fel tank with refuel tube aswell as the exhaust and carb pipes. the problem is that it floods the engine everytime i fill through the refuel tube and floods the exhaust aswell, what am i doing wrong. please help

these are the servos that i have in my planes: 1.) hi-boy precedant; A.) aerilons, elevator and throttle: futaba FP-S148. B.) rudder and steering: futaba S3003 2.) topmodel kabriolin; A.) elevators: hitec HS-77BB x2 B.) rudder: hitec HS-300 C.) throttle: futaba S3004 D.) aerilons: futaba S3003 x2 Could you also tell me if these servos are actually any good.

how do u find out what current servos will or can i post what servos i got in each plane and you guys could let me know.

very true arun, trouble is that sometimes i cant see the obvious because of different reasons, may it be budgeting, being narrow minded on certain things or becoz of lack of experience, as for using the battery pack for in-house testing and setting up, i cant really see a problem with it aslong as i dont leave it in the plane but others may say its a huge risk, especailly around a 1 year old (btw, i never start an engine anywhere near him before anyone does ask). So i guess that you could say that the lack of experience with this is my akeles heel, even though im experienced with electrics

thanx martin, i am reluctant to use it for actual flying and only use it for testing the installed servos within the plane when im at home and setting up the plane before taking it out for a flight otherwise i dont bother with it and if ur wondering how long i charge it to do the testing, never more than 5 mins ( usually 1 or 2 min). But if u think i should just bin it, then please say so