Martin

I would assume from Evolution Models. Their website seems to be a work in progress and doesn't show it, but it does have a "sales" email address. http://evolution-models.com/ sales@evolution-models.com Personally, I am quite interested in the glider that James was talking about.

What was the problem?

I can't edit user permissions, but I can edit posts, so I've done that as the next best thing. Can you please check it to see that I've done it correctly. I'm not sure why you can't edit the post - I thought all users could edit their own posts.

I have a backup of the old website CMS database that I took on 28th February last year. I checked, and the SMAS article does appear in the backup. I've managed to extract the article text and HTML formatting, have fixed some punctuation that got broken in the process, and I have this in a file on my computer. I can email it to you or anyone else, but I don't have access to the new website to put it back.

Is it the 39 or the 36 that they're selling with the WOT4? When the guy from Ripmax gave a talk at a club night a couple of years ago he gave the impression that they had loads of Irvine 36s, which is why at that time they were doing a giveaway bundle price for the engine with their Jive funfly ARTF. I think these were still the UK-manufactured 36s, too. I know that it says 39 on those pages, but I just wonder if wires have got crossed somewhere. Or maybe the "39 Special Edition" is some modification of a 36! As far as I'm aware, the 39 and 53 are both pretty much impossible to get o

No - this just means the pack is capable of supplying 66A if called upon to do so. Generally people will allow a bit of a safety margin when specifying ESCs and batteries. From the motor specification at https://www.emaxmodel.com/gt2826.html , the motor is quoted as drawing 51A off a 4S pack with a 14x7 APC prop, so around 60A capability for ESC and pack seems fair. Generally, people will select the pack capacity based on size and weight once the number of cells is chosen. The required C rating then comes from the motor's rated maximum current draw divided by the pack capacity - in t

What does the recovery do? I assume return to vertical, but does it return to a static hover or just to a state where the only acceleration is 9.8m/s/s downwards? (That would require the ability to detect velocity/position rather than just acceleration, so I assume it's just return to vertical.)

Interesting. I have an MCP-X (the old brushed version) which I bought as an upgrade from an MSR-X. (Actually, I have two, as Wheelspin were selling them so cheaply when the brushless version came out that I bought a second one to have a supply of spare parts.) How capable is the recovery mode in the new ones? With me it wouldn't be recovery from 3D, more recovery from basic flying like trying to turn without having to come to a static hover first...

Ah! I had missed that in writing my post. That might explain why Hobbyking didn't have any motors matching that size and kV - I did think it seemed odd that the offered ranges (considering both kV and stated numbers of winds) were so far disjoint. Thanks for the great information. I nearly did write in my original post that you'd really be the person to ask about this! Also, your mention of "on their own site" made me check again, because I'd posted a link to emaxmotor.com which has no mention of case size being bigger! I have since found the page: https://www.emaxmodel.com/gt28

A 2826/06 and a 2826/09 are both the same size, and will both look the same from the outside, but they are not equivalent motors. "2826" simply means that the motor is 28mm in diameter and 26mm in length (not including the shaft). The "/06" or "/09" refers to the number of turns of wire in the motor. This affects the "kV" rating of the motor, which is also often quoted for motors, and refers to the speed (in rpm) that the motor will turn for a particular supply voltage. Using a motor with a different kV rating may require you to change any or all of the prop size, the battery pa

Do you think they deliberately put it on late in the day at that airshow so people could see the flames? The sky looks pretty dark in the video.

Well, when you say "turns over perfectly", does that include still having the same feel to the compression as it did before? Merely spinning round freely with little or no compression is a very bad sign! But as you say, we can have a look at it tomorrow.

Oily residue from the exhaust is normal, though obviously more than usual may indicate something wrong. If there is genuinely residue coming out somewhere other than the exhaust or a tiny amount from the front bearing, this is definitely a problem! Have a look to see exactly where it seems to be coming from, and also check that everything that should be tight is. Is the plug still tight? Is the silencer still tight? Is the cylinder head still tight? Don't force anything tighter than it should be, but do check to see if things are loose. Heavy bits attached by a couple of screws (such as silenc

You've included two electric-only WOT4s on your list of possibles, but you should also know that the "normal" WOT4 ARTF also now has designed-in electric support: http://ripmax.com/Item.aspx?ItemID=A-CF ... ry=010-020 Note that the new Chris Foss ARTFs all need an "IC" or "EP" option pack, sold separately. The latest version of the WOT4 ARTF now follows this approach. I think most of the newer Seagull models also support electric as designed. It's pretty common on current ARTFs, though some do it better than others!

I keep all of my fuel planes indoors, hanging engine-upwards on the wall, so any fuel/oil residue inside the engine drops to the back of the engine. There was a thread about this on the forum a couple of years ago: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=3715&p=21037 - I keep meaning to update this with photos of what I now do (using horizontal storage rails and hooks from B&Q). To avoid getting oil everywhere, I do two things: Clean the plane off with detergent at the field before putting it back in the car. I personally use "Flash" brand lemon flavour kitchen surface cleaning wipes

Do you want this?

I've got several chargers, but only two brands. I've never bought any of the big-name RC brands (Ripmax, Graupner, Overlander, etc), so I don't know what they're like. The reason for having so many In the order I bought them, I have: A GT Power 200W charger that lives in my transmitter case (since there was a space in the flight case) but rarely gets used these days. This was my original charger. It's DC input only, and I also have a 200W mains PSU for it, which never gets used these days as when this charger does get used it's for field charging. A GT Power "606-D" 50W charg

If you've never done it before then it might be a better idea to get a foam one first! We've had a couple of CAMFC slope soaring outings, and generally the people who turned up with built-up balsa gliders as their first attempt didn't really get much flying in, as a couple of heavy arrivals would lead to more repairs than could be done at the field. Dave recommended the Flying Wings Slipstream, and I can certainly vouch for its beginner-friendliness as well as high resilience (though I recommend reinforcing the Correx wingtips with fibreglass tape as otherwise they can be ripped off in a

I was going to suggest that myself! They don't have to be expensive: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/zippy-fligh ... -pack.html https://hobbyking.com/en_us/zippy-fligh ... -pack.html https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nan ... -pack.html ... etc ... They also have the advantage of being smaller and lighter, and providing a much better discharge rate (so you don't have to put in a huge pack just to get the current rating for multiple heavy servos). Even the small ones are fine for 4-5 servo planes. My WOT4 with 4x Hitec HS5485HB digitals and 1x Futaba S3001 flies fine on a

Yes, my main concern with that prop on a 35 was how quickly the engine would be able to spin it up on demand. A 12in IC prop has a fair amount of momentum.

I think 12x7 in that list has to be a mistake. I'd expect to see a 12x7 on a .55 not a .35! 12.25x3.75 might be a bit on the heavy side. I used a 12x4 on several different .46 engines (albeit not an AX) and it was fine there but it appeared to be at the upper end of what the engine could cope with. That said, the other propellers in the recommended list (e.g. 10x7, 11x6) are also ones I'd expect to see on a .40 or .46. There is a useful rule of thumb to compare the rough load that a propeller places on the engine or motor, which is to take the square of the diameter multiplied

It depends on how serious you are! I know that the people who enter rubber free-flight competitions do things like buying only sealed boxes of rubber, making up individual motors and bagging these individually, and testing each such motor once during the trimming flights on the day of competition, so they can use the best ones for the more important competitive flights... Personally, I don't take particularly good care of my rubber. I do use lube on it when flying (I'm currently using the silicone oil from Free Flight Supplies, but I know Duncan uses KY Jelly), and I keep it in a plastic

It turns out that there are, but only since about a week ago! I had been aware of two: * KA114/N114KA is a restoration using most of the original metal but with all new wooden parts made by a company in New Zealand a couple of years ago, on behalf of an owner in the US. First post-restoration flight was 29th September 2012. Annoyingly, when I was in NZ a couple of years ago I was a couple of weeks too late to catch its last NZ airshow appearances before it was shipped to the US. * VR796/C-FHMJ is a mostly-original airworthy one in Canada - one of the RAF surplus ones that was sol

Ooh! A real 109 rather than a Buchon! Newly built Mosquito? You mean the one built in NZ and now in the US?

You need a thicker bit of ply, then! I certainly have cracked one bit of ply, but it's not hard to make another, and you could always make a spare and keep it in your box... Generally I find that the undercarriage is the one bit that survives when I crash yet another WOT-4 foamie! Having just looked up the relevant Model Fixings order, when I was using M3 socket cap screws they were 60mm long. However, that's only enough to get through into a T-nut, not to protrude the other side as you'd need if you're using studding with a plain nut on the end. 65-70mm is probably about right