Martin

I assume you mean an ASP 0.52 2-stroke - they also do a 0.52 4-stroke, which is a very different beast. Something like a 12x6 or 12x7 is probably good if by "a bit of speed" you mean you want a higher top speed. You could even go down further in diameter, to an 11x7 or 11x8. If you're more interested in acceleration at lower speeds, you could try something with a larger diameter but lower pitch. Be aware that any change in prop will require re-tuning the engine (needle setting(s) and Tx idle position), and that low-diameter, high-pitch props will tend to rev higher and produce more noi

Well... You only really need one.

Don't you have one from your other receiver?

Any standard servos should be fine in that model. I think you said you had HS-322 in your Cougar? If you're happy with those they should be fine in the Xpression. It's not a particularly heavy, fast or high-performance model, and the control surfaces aren't any bigger than those on a typical trainer. There was an aileron servo (I think it was a Futaba S3001 or S3003) already in the model, but I have no idea what condition it was in. You might prefer to replace that with a new one, or at least move it to a less critical function (i.e. throttle). Lots of places will do a deal on 4x stand

Sorry, I didn't mean to cause concern with my comments about copyright. You've got a legal copy of Phoenix. I was just explaining why I suspect that "official" replacement leads aren't available - if they did that at less than the full price for the software it could be a loophole for people wanting to use it without paying.

It might be hard to obtain a replacement, as Phoenix relies on detecting the adaptor lead to determine whether your copy of the software is genuine (there isn't any other copy protection in the software, and you can get updates effectively forever). That said, HobbyKing do sell an adaptor that they claim is compatible with Phoenix: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... n_One.html International warehouse only, though. Possibly this is due to copyright issues?

A bit of both. I followed their recommended reinforcing tape pattern, so the front of the wing is mostly reinforcing tape and the rear is mostly direct to foam. I also did cover the whole wing with spray glue as directed, both before and after applying the reinforcing tape. Interesting about the glue degrading. I've seen you bring your foamies in a bin bag - is this just for transport, or do you store them in this to keep them away from light? Given the risk of messing it up, I might hold off any attempt until after Sunday now. If it works, great, but if it doesn't I'll have ti

I've been checking over my Slipstream in readiness for this Sunday's potential slope soaring trip, and the coloured tape is a bit wrinkled. Will an iron or heat gun tighten this up like it would with covering film? Recommendations between iron and heat gun (I'd probably go with iron as more gentle)? Or will this make the whole thing into a horrible mess? (I'd rather not have to re-cover the whole thing before Sunday!)

I think I might have a spare dural undercarriage that I bought to use with a trainer but didn't, which you'd be welcome to. I assume you're actually after a proper soldered wire WOT-4 undercarriage though?

I don't think you mean throttle cut for electric. You probably mean an "arming switch" (there are probably other names used too) - i.e. a switch that forces throttle to minimum except for one "armed" position where throttle behaves normally, like Arun describes earlier in this thread. I'm aware of three ways of doing this, and there's almost certainly a better way on a Taranis. Using a switchable mix: mix throttle to throttle, -100% (so when the mix is active the throttle stick cancels itself out), then use the other settings for the mix to set the actual output at that time. (

Taranis plus: wasn't one of the other (similarly minor) changes that it included as standard the improved knobs/sliders (rather than people having to pay a few pounds to upgrade)? One question I have to the Taranis users: do you use the supplied mains charger to charge the Tx battery in place? Or do you remove it and charge outside the Tx? (The plug looks the same as that for 2s Lipo balance lead, so making up an adapter should not be hard.) On the subject of getting younger people involved in RC flying, I think cost is probably a very big factor, as well as transport (it's not

Taranis plus: wasn't one of the other (similarly minor) changes that it included as standard the improved knobs/sliders (rather than people having to pay a few pounds to upgrade)? One question I have to the Taranis users: do you use the supplied mains charger to charge the Tx battery in place? Or do you remove it and charge outside the Tx? (The plug looks the same as that for 2s Lipo balance lead, so making up an adapter should not be hard.) On the subject of getting younger people involved in RC flying, I think cost is probably a very big factor, as well as transport (it's not

Ben, I've replied to your PM.

I really don't mind who takes it! Bear in mind that it will need some more parts (e.g. engine, servos) and some work (e.g. fitting them) to get it flying. I'll bring it next time I come down the field, and I'll be sure to post here to say which day that is. It's unlikely to be for a few weeks though.

I won't be flying on Sunday 16th, but I'll let you know when I'm next going to be down the field.

The Royal Mail postcode finder suggests CR6 9RU.

I have a Ripmax Xpression that I bought second-hand from Avicraft a year or so ago. I don't know much about the aircraft, except that it's a 4-channel shoulder-wing sports model. Control surfaces look unexceptional in size, so I imagine it would just fly like a normal sport / aerobatic model not anything 3D. There aren't many pictures of these around, but here's a publicity photo of one: http://www.modelflying.co.uk/reviews/product.asp?p=1421 I bought this when I needed a model quickly and had a shoulder injury that meant I didn't want too much building. However, w

I seem to recall that you did have a stowaway in the past, Trevor... viewtopic.php?f=15&t=2664#p15417

This is reminding me to build mine, too! At the moment I've got various sheets of foam still taped together from being posted to me, two copies of the plan printed out at A0, and various parts bought from HobbyKing based on the BOM suggested by the designer on the original RCGroups thread (including a couple of 3S 500mAh batteries). Maybe this should be next on the build queue! I'm always jealous when I see other people with them at the field.

Thanks for all the tips. I think I'll practice on the one that's really broken before I commit to anything on the one that still has hope! The idea of attaching some sort of extension (I'm thinking of taping on bamboo barbeque skewers) to the pushrods is a good one. If I can cover the wire ends with tape then hopefully they won't stick through the foam.

In the last funfly (Skittles), my WOT 4 Foam-E had an "arrival" which cracked the rear fuselage. Upon closer inspection, the carbon tube spine has also split (lengthways like bamboo - it hasn't actually broken the fibres). I'm considering my options for repairing this. Firstly, I could take the rear section right off (the foam is broken on one side, but I could break the other side too), and try to replace the spine with a fresh piece of tube. The issues I see with this are: there's no guarantee I'll actually be able to get the old tube out of the rear section without d

Did the ESC play the "arming" tune? If not, this could be something like incorrectly reversed throttle channel (especially if copying settings from Futaba), or wrong endpoint/trim on throttle channel. I'd suggest taking the prop off and trying different combinations of these. On the antenna positioning discussion, my personal preference is (if possible) to put one antenna on each side (left/right) of the fuselage, with one horizontal and one vertical. This means that not only are they at right angles to each other, but also are never both in the same plane. ("Plane" in the mathematical

This is a common scam. It's not even aimed at the club specifically - this is the main type of spam I now receive on my personal email address too. It's not just requests for payment - there are lots of other things to trick you into opening the attachment (usually appearing to be a Word or Excel document), which I assume has some sort of virus. I've seen fake "refunds", fake "legal" demands from "solicitors" (in one case, unable to spell the word "solicitor"), and all sorts of other things. Note that the scam is not actually trying to get you to pay a non-existent invoice - it's trying to get

I wouldn't be that worried about the "edge thickness" of the antenna. The only reason wire antennae are as thick as they are is to provide mechanical strength - the difference between (say) 0.7mm diameter wire and 0.2mm thick PCB track for radio reception purposes is negligible. The PCB substrate provides the mechanical strength, and there is almost zero current to be carried. It would be interesting to see if there is any effect on reception, using the range check reduced power TX mode and telemetry to see what the difference for different antenna directions. I assumed that th

I've been quite interested in that one for a while. I'll be interested to see how you get on with yours!