snakeyme

i do have a futaba battery pack but everytime i charge the pack (or try to) it gets so damn hot (i use a charger with auto cut off to stop over charging) and by hot i mean to hot to touch so im too affraid to give it a full proper charge as it gets this hot within an hour of charge. This is the packs info and charger info: Battery; Futaba p-pack NR-4J 4.8VDC - 500 mAh Charging: 50mA - 15 hours Quick CHG: 150mA - 5 hours. Charger; Ripmax Pri: 110-240v ~50/60hz Sec: Rx 4.8-8.4v - 600mA Tx 9.6v - 120mA

i probably shoulda mentioned this before but i wrap the loose cell battery carriers in insulation tape so that only the contacts are visible and then put the whole thing in a tightly cut piece of foam (the stuff that usually pads fuel tanks) and its so tight that its a struggle to get it in, this is what i do to stop them coming loose

i use normal AA battery carriers for battery packs inside planes and i get 2800mha Ni-mh batteries off amazon, they cost me £2.97 for a pack of 4 and are called palocell, they take about 4 hrs to fully charge and will last for 2 weeks in a digital camera used everyday. Just thought id mention that

yh i agree, i desperately need a simulator but im gunna get my kabriolin perpped for the air before i get a simulator and as for my current trainer, only cost me £10, so if it falls short, then its no big loss. Also funily enough, ive had several goes of a simulator at shops and i seem to fly perfectly on them its just put it into practice that i seem to fail at lol. Hopefully by or during next weekend, you will all hear of a successful flight by me but we will soon find out.

yh lol arun, i did mean areobatics lol. There are some i really wanna try when im ready to, these are; Prop hang (when i figure out how its done) Tail flip Inverted g spin but the plane will also be an advance from the trainer that i got (even though i managed to stall 2 already during take off and ended up totalled which were the white sunbeam i had at the field (turned out to have a major fault with its tail fin) and a tutor 40 mk1 which suddenly power during the take off) and ironically i havnt even managed to get the current trainer to take off yet due to various problems includ

thanx arun. The plane that its gunna be mounted to is an extreme 3d plane, specailly designed and built for aerobatics and when it comes to flying the plane i dont wanna risk an accident as its also extremely fast aswell so i think the extra braking will be good. Also 1 thing i found interesting about this plane, is that on reviews online, people have said that its almost impossible to stall it and itll glide through the air with only 20% throttle, however i aint gunna find out how true this is until im comfortable and know how well the plane actually flies. I will eventually use i

thanx jimbo, thas what i thought with the sizes. As for 3 blade props, i like them simply because, when you watch red bull air racing, all of there stunt planes have 3 bladed props and as the plane im talking about is a stunt plane, im trying to match it so it looks more "realistic" so to speak.

hi all i have a dilemma, And here it is. Im puting a .91 2-stroke on my plane and the following are useable prop sizes; 13x10-11 14x6-8 15x6-8 Now even though those are recommended for use with the engine, i have worked out that i have enough clearance for a prop upto 19" in diameter. So im wondering if its possible to put a larger prop on the engine, as im thinking of using a 17x10 3-bladed wooden propeller but i really dont know what the consequences of doing such a thing. If anyone could advise on this it would really help me in a massive way.

hi again, im curious as to why some people have petrol engines and why others stick to nitro. Whats the advantages and disadvantages of both and also whats the sive equivilants e.g. a .91 2-stroke = 1.20 4-stroke. Whats your opinions

what is the old warden thing as i may try to get to (atleast) 1 of them and if its what i think it is, i may bring my plane up to show u guys and any other planes if ive got more by that time

hi all Just thought id mention the fact that its my sons (jacks) 1st birthday today and we are all having a great day.

i had the same problem with a strimmer once, that turned put to be nackered crank bearings. If i was you, i would strip the engine and replace all internal bearings as u dont want loose pieces of metal in the engine while its running. I dunno if these engines are anything like strimmer engines, but thought id put this just incase its relevant.

ill be using realflight (i think thats what its called or atleast real something lol) but phoenix has the settings on its support section of its website and i was gunna buy a 2.4ghz tx but it didnt come with a rx and i dont have a clue how to setup a tx and rx together so bought this 1 instead. As for the mixing switches, took me 4 hours to figure them out and to answer a previous question, no, not all esky tx has the switches but either way it was a major pain in the arse

very true there arun but as i bought the controller for £20 with a plane that cost £30 in a package deal, i thought why not especailly as the trainer interface is there and more importantly, the throttle and rudder is on the left rather than the right as my old 1 is.

there was no need to be arrogant at all, i was merely trying to help, which will be the last time i do

luckily, this 1 has a trainer port on the back and ive done some digging online and you can setup the simulator for the tx, you just have to be careful with how u do it, ive also been told that there is a program that i can download that attatches to the simulator that automatically configures the setting to recieve the tx Once ive managed to figure it out and get proper internet, ill post how you do it if you all wish

throw a rope over the branch above the planes resting place making sure u have both end of the rope on the ground. Put a choker loop in 1 end (big enough to fit over the planes tail) and gently raise the loop to the planes tail. Then use a long pole or stick to coax the loop over and around the tail. While holding the rope on the plane using ur pole/stick, pull on the other end of the rope to tighten the loop so it wont fall off. then use the pole/stick to knock the place loose with 1 hand while holding the rope in the other. using the rope, gentley lower the plane to the g

im just wondering if anyone has owned the topmodel kabriolin as ive just bought 1 due to the fact that they no longer had the mustang. I plan on puting a .91 engine on it with a triple bladed prop (i just would like to have a tri-blade prop lol) and i wanted to know a few things. How well do they fly How stable is it during flight What would be best to get the most out of it (a 2 stroke or a 4 stroke) And any other advice would be appreciated aswell. Thanx all

nevermind, ive found the problem, its a heli transmitter and has channel mixing switches below the battery compartment and ive figured out how to use them lol

hi all, i have a serious problem with my transmitter that ive just bought. Its a 6 channel E-sky ET transmitter znd all channels activate every servo and not a servo for each channel as if the transmitter is transmitting the same constant signal for every stick. Anyone know what the problem could be.

if ur gunna attempt to climb the tree take an extendable stick or pole so u can knock the plane first as it may help loosen it for you

hi all, im in 2 minds here. A local model shop/charity has a p51d mustang (scale size i think) and it needs finishing but mostly built. It comes with whats needed to be finished and is equipped with air retracts, flaps and everything else i believe (no electrics from what i understand). The plane costs £50 and im not sure whether to buy it or not. I know this is a really advanced plane to fly and im still in the basics learning stage and i will have no intentions of flying it until im ready, however the mustang is a dream plane of mine as i love ww2 aircraft and im looking fo

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set= ... 023&type=1 said it twice just incase the pic thing didnt work but thas the album for my pictures of the plane

well luckily i have finally done it all accept puting the elevator and rudder on, im too affraid to do the hinges as i wont put them on straight, i will however put pics up to show what ive done later on tonight so you can see what ive done and how i have set the contrasts up so i know which way is which.

so i have metallic green kwik cote and a navy blue film (dunno which 1 though). should i: put the green all over except for the underneath of the wings and fuse. or put the green on the fuse and top of the wings and do the control surfaces in the blue and the bottom of all the wings. or does someone have a better idea with what to do with the 2 colours.