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Building board


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Having decided to have a go at my first ever scratch build model I am wondering about what kind of a building board to set up to avoid any warps setting in.

 

Present thoughts are perhaps to make one from two layers of 12mm WBP ply screwed and bonded together with cork floor tiling bonded on one side to act as a surface for pinning build elements down.

 

Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated. :)

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I use a kitchen counter-top - cheap, flat and stable, with a sheet of sacrificial ply screwed to it.

 

I will reverse the ply when its got knackered.

 

The problem I've always found is trying to find something that is both flat and stable, and that you can also push building pins into, hence my laminate solution - the counter gives me the flatness and rigidity, whilst the ply allows me to pin down the work.

 

Whatever you use, you will need to make sure that when you use it, it is still flat - this will depend on your circumstances of course :)

 

Edit: i would recommend NOT using MDF, as when you spill your coffee on it, it bubbles up horribly!

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Good idea Jim.

 

What approx size is the worktop you use and what thickness of ply do you laminate with?

 

I laminate the board with 12mm ply.

 

I make the board as big as I can in the space available.

 

My Bristol Fighter has a wing span of about 6'6" so you don't want to go much less than that if you can help it.

Width, you can get away with probably 2', so you could get 2 cuts from a sheet of ply, but I tend to go with about 3' to match the counter-top.

 

Go as big as you can really Gerard - more space is always an advantage - again, depends on your circumstances.

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I uses to use a technical drawing table. "if that's what they are called"....Its was great very big & flat! But did take up alot of space in the house!

I used cork matting on top of it or something like that!

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My preference is for 19mm blockboard so it is stable and flat. If space allows go for something like 8ft x3ft and finish the ends off with spruce strip mitred at the corners this adds more stability to the board. My board is on two metal fold away trestles and it has served me well over many years of building. I usually use dressmakers pins about 2" long and home made balsa right angles for jigging the model. I use an offcut piece approx 2ft x1ft and this is for tailplanes and small sub assemblies which is handy because you can move it around from room to room if you are that way inclined .

Cheers

Pete

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I am going to follow up on Jim's suggestion and use some kitchen worktop veneered with screw fixed ply, probably 9mm. Cabbie has very kindly offered to try and get me a suitable off cut piece of worktop.

 

I'm considering putting some self adhesive cork floor tiles on the ply to provide an easily pinnable surface. If and when they wear out I can pull them off the ply without worrying about damaging the surface and then flip the ply over as Jim suggested.

 

At the moment, due to space restrictions in the ruins out back, roughly describable as a garage, I'm going for a size of 1800 x 600mm to get started with.

 

After I get this sorted and settle into a first build I think I will also set up a transportable board as Peter suggested. This sounds like a very useful accessory. :)

 

Thanks to everyone so far for their help. It's helped a lot. :D

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My preference is for 19mm blockboard so it is stable and flat. If space allows go for something like 8ft x3ft and finish the ends off with spruce strip mitred at the corners this adds more stability to the board. My board is on two metal fold away trestles and it has served me well over many years of building. I usually use dressmakers pins about 2" long and home made balsa right angles for jigging the model. I use an offcut piece approx 2ft x1ft and this is for tailplanes and small sub assemblies which is handy because you can move it around from room to room if you are that way inclined .

Cheers

Pete

 

My previous board was blockboard similarly, with hardwood edgings glued and screwed to stop it warping. Served me many years, but left behind on my move. Large Plasterboard sheet is a good temporary solution for big projects, it takes pins easily and laid over a bench is nice and flat (fairly cheap too!!)

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Forgot to mention, Peter's comments about right angles reminded me. I bought some engineer's squares off Ebay. They are heavy steel and should make right angles straightforward. I got a 150mm, a 75mm and a more unusual 25mm one. I reckon the 25mm one should be useful for setting up wing ribs and the like in tight spaces.

 

If anyone's interested the 25mm square is at:

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1-engineers-square-model-engineers-dream_W0QQitemZ350042038889QQihZ022QQcategoryZ633QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

until tomorrow

 

Overall dimensions are base (heavy) side including blade projection 44mm, blade side 51mm.

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Many thanks to Cabbie for his generosity in bringing a worktop off cut to the field yesterday and also giving me tubing to make some legs from. It's perfect as a base for a building board and will make life a lot easier having a true stable flat surface.

 

Thanks again Cabbie.

 

My credit card is now looking worried as I will be visiting Avicraft in the near future to buy lots of balsa and ply. :D

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Gerard,

You could considerably reduce the cost of balsa and ply by buying from Balsa Cabin in Maldon in Essex. They do a good mail order service and delivery is usually next day or at least in 48hrs. Also they will grade the balsa for you if you tell them what you want. Try logging on to their web site and compare the prices you will probably be pleasantly surprised

Pete

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Thanks Peter.

 

Trevor had told me about Balsa Cabin a while ago but I had forgotten about them. I will certainly have a look with Jim's helpful link supplied.

 

If I end up in a site portraying the virtues of flying models without tail fins I'll be suspicious......... :D

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