Trevor

Yes, I was looking at that just now. I like the CAP but I think I would like something a bit different. Might look at some .91-1.20 size warbirds

Must put the paintbrush down before I add too much weight to the model

I notice on the Glens website they have used the Zenoah 20cc on the 68" CAP232 and they reckon it gives similar performance to the 26cc Zenoah. The 68" Glens CAP is currently £200 pre-built. That looks promising.

The Zenoah 20cc is 1190g with everything added, which as Darren says is about 3/4 lb more than the OS120FS. Will have to look at other options for aircraft. Still, no rush. If anyone has any suggestions or can point me at a reasonable priced petrol engine about 20cc please let me know.

I finally got back to the Miles Magister I started about 2 years ago from Dennis Bryant plans. Scale approx. 1/6th, wing span 68" engine ASP80FS. This is my project to make a reasonable scale aircraft so I want to take my time over it. Here are some current pictures:

Thanks for the advice guys, I havent decided on a plane yet but am considering something like Darren's Advanced Pitts. I know that's a bit a$$ about face but I am looking at petrol and cost, then everything else should follow suit. I don't usually fly very fast but would like to do some aerobatics. £185 for the engine and £180 for the plane seems like a reasonable amount to spend on a first petrol plane. Does this seem like a reasonable combination?

Peter, I want to have a go at making a good scale panel and not just a passable one. I am very interested in your technique for making instruments and any information you have on the magister. I will try and make it to the AGM. Thanks Trevor

Has anyone got any tips for making (rather than buying) scale-looking instruments and instrument panels for aircraft. I want to make panels for my 1/6th Miles Magister and these look very similar to Tiger Moth panels with very similar instruments.

I am considering joining the ranks of the petrolheads for my next plane and came across this Zenoah 20cc for £185 including silencer, ignition, pump etc. It seems more affordable than other petrol engines. Are these engines worth considering?

Finished cowl weighs 4.5oz but I can remove a 3oz balance weight so not much weight added overall. Looks okay. Not perfect but better than no cowl.

I started the cowl for the CAP. I decided a glassfibre one is too much work for now so I made a balsa one and will glassfibre over it. I could use it for a plug to create a mold sometime in the future if I want to. I created a boxy looking cowl to start with. Doesnt look much at this stage but you have to imagine what is inside it (like Michaelangelo when he started the statue of David ) Then added a front piece and planed and sanded it down to the required shape. It isnt exactly to scale, it is more a cross between a CAP cowl and a Giles one but I think it looks "wicked"

I made some changes to the CAP and flew it today for the first time in a few weeks. I have swapped the Irvine .46 for an Irvine .53, moved the CofG forward to 25% wing chord instead of 30% and changed the wing incidence by padding the rear down by 1 degree to compensate for the 2 degrees washout. It flew very well, much improved over previous flights. The extra power meant it took off much quicker and climbed better, the change in wing incidence made it fly straight instead of tail down and the forward CofG seemed to give it better penetration and glide. Looping was also much improved, it

Wow, I'm glad I asked I will have to reread that a few times for it to sink in Thanks

Another general question this time about tuned pipes. What are the pros and cons of using a tuned pipe over a standard silencer?

A general question about 3D fun fly planes (specifically my new Cougar 2000 with Irvine .39). Is it better the use a larger diameter smaller pitch prop (e.g. 11x6) or a smaller diameter larger pitch prop (e.g. 10x7). Also, is a fun fly better with a fast revving engine or slow revving? I think the smaller diameter might give better throttle response. Has anyone else got experience of this and know better?

Well, the test flight was a bit of an anticlimax. After running the engine in on a full tank of fuel I gave it its first flight; placed it on the runway, pointed it into the wind and opened the throttle gradually. I was tense and ready to react to any sudden banks or rolls but nothing untoward happened. The Cougar just took off in about 3 metres at half throttle and flew straight as a die, no trimming needed. I even did some gentle aerobatics and inverted flying on the maiden flight. I am impressed with the Cougars smooth flying and effortless maneuverability. With the Irvine .39 it

Are the pictures of the 2006 show available anywhere? (No I'm not just interested in Miss Daily Sport).

I have only just managed to complete the Cougar. Just had to install the fuel tank, receiver, battery and switch. It is quite tight but it all squeezed in okay. The finished plane is good looking. I will take it to the field next time I go and maybe have a test flight

About 1.5 hours work. Mounted my shiny new Irvine 39 then discovered the carb retaining pinch bolt was missing and the silencer was the wrong one. Jenny at JustEngines (very nice lady) is sending the right bits but meanwhile I have mounted the engine and fixed the undercarriage. Engine mount is the glass/nylon one supplied with the kit. The engine is oriented so the head is at the 8 o'clock position and the silencer will go underneath the fus. The undercarriage legs are made from stiff wire and are fixed to the underside using plastic clamps. The wheels are very lightweight and fixe

Ok I give in, who is billy big b*!!*cks?

A dab of cyano is a good idea. The crimps seem tight enough at the moment but the cyano will make sure. Thanks for the suggestion. I had enough trouble putting the wire through the crimp twice I dont think it would have gone through again These must be extra small diameter crimps I suppose

Couldn't get to the field today but managed to spend a couple of hours or so on the Cougar. Installed the elevator and rudder controls which is probably the most fiddly bit. The servo tray is pre-installed and cut out so that makes things easier. The rudder control is closed loop and the elevator control is a carbon tube with wire push rods fixed to the ends. I have never done a closed loop before but it was quite easy. All the parts are provided in the kit. Wasn't sure how to squeeze the crimps so I just used a pair of side cutters. There is probably a proper tool to do this but it wor

About 15 minutes to install the fin. The fin on the Cougar is really just a carbon tube with 1.5cm balsa stuck on. It is just there to hold the rudder on, the balsa is just there for the rudder hinges. I dont think it is there for any aerodynamic reason. The carbon post goes through a hole in the top fuselage deck and locates in a hole in the fuselage bottom, both holes predrilled. A small section of covering on the top deck needs to be removed and the fin is glued in. Used two lengths of wood clamped either side of the fin/rudder and a pin stuck in the centre of the front fuselage to

Thanks for the advice Leon and Andre. Leon's method of aligning the tailplane and cutting round the fuselage sounds good I will try that on my next artf. I went onto the JustEngines website looking for backplate mounts and ended up buying an Irvine 39 instead. Couldnt find the mounts on the website but it is a good idea, I wonder why they aren't more common?

It took about 1 hour to fix the tailplane. You have to trim around the covering where the tailplane fits onto the fuselage without damaging the wood underneath, weakening it. I dont know the proper way to do this but this is how I did it. I aligned the tailplane on the fuselage by measuring from each corner to a point at front centre of the fuselage and marked round the fuselage with a ball pen. Then I got a new blade, made a nick in the covering, turned the blade over so the blunt edge was against the wood and sliced around the mark. It worked okay without damaging the wood. I then glue