Trevor

For Gerard's benefit, here is the link to the Robotbirds motor/esc deal that I used in my Firefly

I wonder if this new battery technology will come to anything? http://www.nexeon.co.uk/technology/bene ... echnology/ http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-ox ... e-14418293 Oh no, might have to buy yet another charger

Well, the Miles Magister flew today. First flight it was obviously too nose heavy so I removed a large lump of lead from the front and second flight was much better, though still a bit nose heavy. I will try removing some more lead (there was about 1lb of it to bring it to the recommended CoG) and try again next week. Overall I was very pleased with the flight characteristics even in the cross wind we had today. [attachment=0]mm_7.jpg[/attachment]

A couple more

It's been a long wait (4.5 years!) but here are the finished pictures. Ready for a maiden tomorrow, maybe, if the weather is good enough

Went to Duxford IWM today, guess what I saw? Same scheme as my model, which by the way is now finished ready to maiden. Watch this space!

Wow, thanks for the link and the information; I am sure there is a lot of information in the RCGroups thread somewhere but it is well buried. I have settled for a medium option, 2208/12 1850kv motor with 18A esc, 130W on a 7x4 prop from Robotbirds for £12:95. If that is too tame I can always change it later. Another question, there are some nice paint schemes around, any idea what paint they use and how they get those nice flashy patterns?

Ok, I give in, after seeing the fun had with the Fireflys last Sunday, I have caved in and ordered one from Avicraft. However, there is a dearth of information regarding installation so can someone tell me the best motor/prop/esc combination in their opinion? I would like a more powerful setup if possible more like Andre's one.

I see Spektrum have brought out a DSMX/Telemetry version of the DX7. Seems a bit too similar to the DX8, wonder why they bothered?

The "oleos" are dummy, combination of piano wire, ally tube and bent brass but they are quite effective. There is a little bit more to do to the fuselage such as tailwheel, remote glow, pilots and balancing. The maiden should be in a couple of weeks if the weather bucks up a bit.

It's getting there!! Latest pictures. Just don't look at the date of the last post!!

Maybe, but I cant see any make-up mirrors

You have to say that, Irish national colours and all

The green one, it's different .. and green

Geoff will know how many Tx's were booked in each day, I think it was about 230 but dont quote me on that

The engine ran today, much smoother and lots more power than before, well worth it.

The bearings came from SimplyBearings the day after I ordered them. Fitting them was a cinch, the rear one needed a little persuasion but with a hot crankcase and a cold bearing it went in eventually; just hope I dont have to get it out again in a hurry. The conrod bottom end didn't want to go back onto the crankpin until I realised that the conrod top end could slide along inside the piston so that the bottom end could slip on straight. The engine flips over smoothly with plenty of compression and no rumbling noises like before. Just have to try starting it to make sure it goes.

Thanks again. Simply Bearings seem to be quite reasonable prices and postage cost. The Irvine 39 rear bearing is an odd size 13x24x6 which at £8.99 is a lot more expensive than a slightly smaller 12x24x6 at £3.83, wonder why?

Well, I soaked it in WD40, froze it, heated the crankcase with a hot air gun and it came out easily. Thanks everyone for your help. Next question, You can get "budget" bearings quite cheaply or you can pay 2-3 times as much for a known make. Will the budget ones do the job? e.g. SimplyBearings

Thanks, I will give that a try tonight

I am changing the bearings on my Irvine 39. I got the rear bearing out quite easily by heating the crankcase and banging it on a piece of wood, but I just cannot get the front bearing out. I tried heating and pushing a dowel through from the rear but it seems to be stuck fast. Has anyone got any other suggestions?

Don, I was so sorry to see your lovely model damaged like that, I hope you can repair it and get it airborne again soon. I always use 6v batteries with Spektrum for this very reason. Even when under load they will still give more than 4 volts, enough to stop the receiver brown out. This chart shows that after around 1.9Ah discharge the Eneloop cell voltage drops to about 1.0v.

I use epoxy resin thinned with meths; I have some remaining from a fibreglass project. I find it flows into all the cracks and soaks into the wood nicely. Alternatively, Ronseal varnish (the exterior solvent based polyurethane kind not the quick drying water based kind) is okay or you can get various specialised fuel proofers like Solarfilm Clearcoat which are quite expensive for the small tin you get. You should coat anywhere there is bare wood that fuel might get to. Definitely all round the engine and fuel tank compartments and on the fuselage where fuel or oil might flow e.g. wing

That's a shame Steve, it looked so kool

Nice looking plane Steve, looking forward to seeing it fly.