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Magnatilla


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Nice one Trev. If you have problems with ordinary masking tape then the best product for masking is from The AirBrush centre at Lancing. Thier masking film is really excellentand is good against paint creep.

A roll about 10" wide is about a fiver but lasts for ages. It is good with airbrush or normal paint brush

Pete

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Peter, thanks, I remember either you or chris mentioning it at paintbrush night. I have just ordered some to give it a try. It is difficult to stop paint creep on solartex so I will see if it does better than masking tape

 

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Dont fret to much over the paint creep Trev, it will be covered in oil soon, and it wont matter any more. :-)

Your bulkhead looks as much a mess of hard work as mine, HaHa! As long as it works, doesnt matter!

Roger advised me to use Evo Stick contact adhesive on litho plate application, and that seems to work just fine, and stays on! Lets hope your UHU works just as well!

Model is looking good, and solartex is a very good choice for this airframe.

TTFn Oily :wink:

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Looking fine to me..........

 

Have you seen period pictures as to how badly/roughly (and of course lightly, as weight was a killer!) the real things were frequently painted? You might have a prototypical finish if you make it worse!! :wink::lol::lol:

 

Concours was never in their minds!!

 

The other day I came across my computer file of WW2 Hurricane pics. Some of the Russian ones had five point stars where not a single point was actually at the right angle or length, and the numbering could be better done by my four year old grandson.....and as for the seven or eight different shaded patched camo........... :roll:

 

Off Topic, we now do not allow our vehicles to be judged by the HCVS, as they only mark favourably those who have mirror sprayed paint jobs, highly polished brass/nickel/chrome work, and immaculate never sat on interiors. They were BUSES for goodness sake, their one purpose being to carry people day in and day out in all weathers and make money for their owner. We deliberately make ours cosmetically as real as possible, which means hand painted, cross varnished, and certainly while clean we do no heavy polishing. :x

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I wasnt really concerned about the paint creep but I am keen to try new techniques so I would like to try the mask film to see how much better it is than masking tape. It is comparatively cheap, a roll of 50mm low tack masking tape is about £4-5 and a roll of the masking film 300mm x 5m is about £8.

 

No-one spotted the deliberate mistake. Part of the cross is painted over the servo bays which I havent cut out yet, so I will have to repaint part of the cross on the servo bay covers later. I could have painted them 1/2 inch further over. Doh!

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Never used it in an aeromodelling sphere, but years ago used to use liquid mask quite a bit, sometimes in combination with tape and films. Usually worked very well.

 

Little or no experience of Solartex, would have thought the pronounced weave would be a devil to mask cleanly, but people do.

 

I think on painted shapes of your size I'd have done it signwriter style, pencil drawn edging mark and hand painted with long hair brushes. I have done (relatively) small bits of lining on buses that way, with heavily sculptured corners..........last time was when one of our trainees was faced on a blind single track bend with a speeding car head on, and was a few milliseconds remembering that it had centre throttle, RH brake. The car was always going to take the bus's braking distance anyway ......it did!! (Scratch one Renault Clio! :twisted: ).

 

Then a couple of months later the same guy reversed it into a loaded skip. Oh how we laughed................NOT..........that was a months work to repair. And out came my "lining" brushes again.

 

It seems as though it would be more difficult that it actually is to paint freehand, worth practising on some scrap material for the future, do try it, but visit an art shop and get decent brushes!!!

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Trev,

For what its worth I do all my painting using the masking film that I reccomended. I have found no crfeep on solartex or any of the fabrics available. The beauty about the mask that on complicated areas you can apply the film without cutting the shape and then draw in pencil around a card template the design you want and then very carefully cut out your shape in situ using a very sharp 10A blade. The film cuts well and providing you are very !!!!!! careful you will not cut through the fabric.

My staggerwing was done as this with the American 30s style lettering and it came out fine.

If you want straight trim lines then you can use a plastic masking tape 3M 471 which leaves a very sharp edge and is available in variuous widths from Car Colours at Crawley.

 

Seems to me this would be a good subject to cover on a club night

Pete

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Much better result with the masking film. Hardly any sign of paint creep and a nice sharp edge. I'll be using this from now on, at least until something better comes along. Thanks for the tip!

I'm not confident enough to cut it in situ over solartex, one slip and it could ruin the covering. Maybe on the next model after I have had some practise.

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Well that's all he crosses painted, now to continue the installation. Next wing servos, hinge the tail, closed loop on the rudder and pushrod on the elevator. Then undercarriage, , engine, cowl, pilot and machine gun.

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Oh I miss my maggys :( I sold one as I was taking liberties with it and it wasnt going to last. The bloke pleaded with me to let him have it, so I did. He smashed it to bits within a week.

I lost my last one to transmitter problems...

 

They fly so well and look, well, just nice :) Looking forward to seeing it in the air now Trevor.

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Had a go at making wheels as Peter suggested. Here is the result, not too bad and not too difficult. Wooden rims and old car petrol pipe for the tyres which I already had from doing up an old car I owned many years ago (I rarely throw things away). I tried to keep the weight down by making them hollow, a sandwich of two 1/6th ply discs, using a hardwood hub, hardwood "spokes" inside and balsa for the rim. Fake spokes were added outside and covered in solartex to make them look authentic.

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Nice one Trevor glad the suggestion worked out well . They look very authentic and are usually lighter than the Williams bros and can be made from scrap so as far as cost goes no contest

Pete

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Nearly finished, will be ready for the maiden on Sunday weather permitting. Pictures to follow.

 

Rod, are you going to bring your Magnatilla on Sunday for a joint maiden flight?

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All finished ready for first flight. One worrying thing, the undercarriage has no spring in it at all, so I expect it will get pulled out sometime in a hard landing. Otherwise, looking forward to flying it tomorrow. Surprisingly, I had to add 5g tail weight to balance it, a first for me with a kit built plane! I usually have to add several ounces to the front. If it flies okay I might add a gun later. The pilots name is "Lucky". He survived the crash of my 90 size Ultimate a few years ago, then the demise of my Hype 3D a few months ago. Now he is riding to his fate in the Magnatilla.

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Please get some vid/pics if you can chaps - I can't make it to the field but would love to see Trevor's Maggie go, I'll feel happy that I glued at least a few of the matchsticks into place even though I couldn't finish the job :)

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Rod and I did a joint maiden of our Magnatillas. They fly really well, nice and gentle. My third flight was interesting when the throttle linkage came adrift and I had to complete the flight on full throttle until the fuel ran out and I could land deadstick. No damage though. The home made wheels stood up to the landings okay and looked quite effective, but landings are very gentle and easy so no problems really. All in all a very nice plane and I will be flying it a lot more. Rod has some pictures he will post when he gets a chance.

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