arun

Seems like an interesting newsletter/resource ... found it completely by accident http://modelenginenews.org/

I stand corrected, sorry!

Thanks Dave, certainly sounds like a successful project... congratulations on the "maiden"! I assume that if you have two aileron servos on separate channels, you would have to switch to a Y-lead on a single channel to use this? Is there any easy way to assign this gyro to a Tx switch so it can be disabled if it didn't behave as you expected/you just didn't want it active? Cheers

I built one but didn't cover it a few years back - can probably answer most questions with the odd photo to help jog my memory. I think "assembly" is pushing it - you will be doing lots of gluing of formers and sheeting surfaces, I think what Chris Foss means is that it is not an open-structure build. Anyway, is easy enough to put together - just need a couple of set-squares to keep it honest. I think they describe his models as Almost-Ready-to-Build (ARTB)!! Don't forget you will need to fuel proof the engine bay on a kit build - lot's of ways to do this, but warmed up epoxy glue (so is r

Dave - would you mind telling me where you got it please? Would like to have a play around with one of these

Thanks Leon - corrected the post. Yeah, is worth pointing out that the PSU itself is only 50% of cost. You only need to spend the other 50% if you want a nice set of terminals... otherwise can just terminate on 12AWG wire and a Deans.

I can't take credit for this, it was Leon's post on another forum that rendered the info to do it, but since I had some time I built one and I thought it worth sharing as others may want to do the same. Basically you need an old DL380 PSU from eBay and a few components from Maplin to make a 47A/12V DC PSU. More info here, full disclaimers apply if you are going to do DIY electrics and entry forms for the Darwin Awards are readily available [attachment=0]photo.jpg[/attachment] Leon showed me some info this morning that lets you vary the voltage by putting a resistance across two of the

LOL, I'm not actually going to buy this stuff, was just amazed at the secondary market for a micro-heli

I had no idea how many custom replaceable parts (5 pages!) are on the market for the MCPX! Custom frame: Or alu swash plate: I'm sure it would make no difference to my flying and very expensive, but I have to say it's cool! Or even canopies:

Makes sense mate, glad you sorted it. The reason I posted the other link is I wondered if the 10* series had a 'motor' channel which might be something you could also use to achieve what you want. Dual arming makes a lot of sense to me with big electric motors. 1000W+ power setups could do horrendous damage to someone as with a 16/17" prop and batteries capable of providing 100A they are just going to keep on trying to cut through whatever they meet Maybe I'm just paranoid since I chopped my fingers, but I like the idea on bigger models...

Different radio, but worth sharing in context of thread - dual arming technique: http://www.highalpha.org/forum/viewtopi ... 48&t=11017

I use this same technique to have an arming switch on my 8FG. By default the curve is 0% across the range - the motor can't run. But switching the switch move to a positive throttle curve and away we go...

HobbyKing from China usually only a couple of weeks for small items. But better if can buy in UK as can take longer from China due to customs...

The out runner I had gave me enough speed to fly very fast into the oak tree

Sure Dave, thanks - see you online and hopefully some others too...

Will be on at 8.30pm. Will post session details when I sign in if someone hasn't already. Cheers.

Why spend £40+ on a motor that will give same performance as one for £9 in this model? It's only a foamie wing, not a 2m 1500W+ aerobatic monster

Takes about 20 seconds to start after I choose a plane and hit "Free Flight" with all setting at max - fast enough for me given what is has to do to get the simulation loaded, and that once loaded I fly for a lot longer than I wait for it to load Intel i7-2600, 8-cores @ 3.40Ghz, 8Gb RAM, Gainward Phantom Gefore GTX 570 1.3Gb

I have a jig I bought from HobbyKing like the one below. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... duct=11599 Not keen on the prop adaptor at all as the additional bolts through the prop is a good idea to eliminate single point of failure for larger props/more powerful engines IMHO, although happy to be proven wrong Regarding putting the DLE30 in your Mustang, I think this is a good choice of engine to suit future models. You could probably use the throttle curve feature on your 8FG to limit the thrust the engine produces at full stick. Or or course just do it mechanically by no

Colin's model is a Raven - I replicated the spec he wrote down for me (which I believe Dave provided originally). SP 2212-06 motor from GiantCod HobbyWing Guard 30A ESC 6x4" APC 2300 3s LiPo TowerPro 9g servos on ailevators I covered mine in coloured packing tape although the Raven isn't actually intended for covering it made no odds IMHO. Went very fast, so I put LED strips on wings which really helped orientation... I still have the motor, ESCs, servos, LEDs if you want Richard and happy to sell as won't need them in near future. PM me of interested. Cheers

Have been messing around with this for last few hours - overflew my house, my old house and our flying field. It "basically" loads satellite images in real-time into the simulator so that it feels like you are flying over Google Earth And is free! http://www.edtruthan.com/tileproxy/

I recently got myself a copy of Microsoft Flight Simulator X and a decent joystick. I hear there are some good add-ons for it but there is a lot to choose from and some aren't cheap! Any recommendations? I'm especially interested in anything that adds decent new aeroplanes or gives me very high-resolution graphics of London so that I can fly over my house Cheers

Thanks Dave - that's all good advice as always, and very much appreciated your help at the field yesterday. It is worth noting that my control surfaces were all set to 20 deg deflection which are the "aerobatic" rates per the manual... I hate to think what would have happened if I had take "3D" deflections of 60 deg!! Anyway, as you say - it is done - and I put it squarely down to my own error... the main thing is to learn from it and try not to do the same thing twice Cheers.

So... good news and bad news. The maiden went well - perfectly happy in rolls/loops/stall turns and unlimited vertical. Controls extremely jumpy even on recommended settings/expo so tuned them down, but... Second flight not so good - as I made the turn onto finals I over banked and over applied rudder which at the low airspeed appeared to send the model into a spin/spiral dive. Anyway, ran out of sky but managed to get her level for a pancake-ish landing. Damaged is somewhere between superficial and annoying. Undercarriage box needs some repair work, one panel will need re-covering and

Great news! Congratulations.