arun

Sounds great... Looking forward to a mid-air sometime soon when we have them both in the sky

The site is just working intermittently ... This link has been shared around the Internet a lot - it is just experiencing more load than it was built for.

No problem, be good to get some regular on-line sessions going over winter - the few we managed last year were fun!

Just a reminder if anyone wants to join in...

Will be on-line at 7.30pm this Wed, look for the CAMFC session - password will be 'gate' Current version of Phoenix is 4.0m, make sure you're upgraded to this for things to work nicely.

I'm sure there is an amazing iron out there with immaculate balance, feather-like weight and zero friction ... but ultimately, as long as it heats up evenly and holds its temperature to within a 5-10 degrees C it'll be fine! I think that the one you have has a digital temp gauge which would be handy as you can set it to whatever the film manufacturer recommends for tacking or shrinking.

It's all yours if you want it Daniel - you need it more than me, and it's a bargain at the price! Suggest you take it

Also recall that Darren offered you a DX7 for a great price. Buy a Spektrum Rx and you have a 2.4GHz set sorted!

I would suggest saving your money and focussing on the models you have - especially if landings are still a bit "bouncy". No need to spend the cash just because you have it - in this hobby it is very easy to spend money; but it is practice that makes you successful! If you need a particular tool, piece of radio gear etc. buy it when you need it. The exception to this in my opinion might be investing in a 2.4Ghz radio set and retrofitting the Hi-Boy.

Did the spinner last night, wasn't as bad as last time I tried an aluminium one. Probably helped having the PermaGrit tungsten carbide rotary bits on my Dremel which made light work of the metal and still left a nice finish. Used the coarse bit (approx 180 grade) to cut the basic shape. Fine grit (320 grade) to finish up. Have got a few scuffs on the metal, nothing some Autosol metal polish won't sort out - and of course undone with the first unscheduled landing of the model anyway! Intended outline carefully scribed with a thin marker: photo 2.JPG[/attachment] The final assembly:

Not entirely sure what you meant, but I've posted it on the CAMFC Facebook page now!

I don't think I've seen a better demonstration of technical skill than this:

Thanks for the advice Daniel. I have all the tools including tungsten carbide rotary bits and plenty of practice at it in the past. But it's not the doing that I hate, it's the perfectionist in me that dislikes the job - it's just one of those things... The challenge is getting a pair of perfectly identical and balanced cuts (usually I do a mock up on equivalent size plastic spinner). Usually I have to resort to balancing the spinner by drilling the backplate.

Thanks for the advice Daniel. I have all the tools including tungsten carbide rotary bits and plenty of practice at it in the past. But it's not the doing that I hate, it's the perfectionist in me that dislikes the job - it's just one of those things... The challenge is getting a pair of perfectly identical and balanced cuts (usually I do a mock up on equivalent size plastic spinner). Usually I have to resort to balancing the spinner by drilling the backplate.

I am all for that, I would love to dust off my old CF Middle Phase and get it airborne again. I'm half way through helping my Dad build a Middle Phase. Would be fun to bring it along!

I've done a bit of work on the lighting and power system. I'm trying to avoid gluing wings, stabs etc. with a house move now imminent, but you know how these things go... 2x 39ohm 1W resistors placed in the supply lines to the Powerchip LEDs and soldered. These draw 80mAh at 3.5V. The 1W is overkill really, but I had them handy.

The SM-631 was Sanwa's standard servo in the mid-80s (no I didn't know that without checking!). So I think it's fair to say that this is not a modern servo and therefore not "any good" by current standards. But that doesn't mean it's not fit for purpose in your glider assuming they are in good working order, maybe someone else with knowledge of them will chime in...

Hi Daniel, Most glider tugs are 30cc+, what you have is underpowered. Keep in mind, you will need two experienced pilots to tow into the air, the 6 yr old would not be able to control the glider during take off. Also, it raises the question of buddy boxes. If you are flying a tug and must concentrate 100% on it, who is buddying with the 6yr old? You need at least three competent pilots to pull this off... Anecdotally, 6 is too young to RC fly - most of the experiences I have read about this (and I have a heavy interest with two kids who will fly one day ) suggest that before age 8

Dave - In my case, the erratic keys was a symptom of a USB device drawing too much current - solved with a powered hub, or reducing devices (I have none as only access over network now it is configured). Re resolution: assuming you are using the Raspbian image, this looks like a fairly handy set of commands to run/diagnose resolution issues -> link. Also the raspi-config looks like it might be useful. Haven't been using Raspbian myself, I use the ArchLinux image as prefer how it is organised, but really depends what your use-case for the Pi is. Arun

Sounds good, not sure I'll be at the field due to family commitments, but make sure you post some video!

I know you're only playing, but everyone has to start somewhere mate - and none of us learned to land without the odd mishap along the way!

I needed something to hack around with in the cold months, so decided to build an AcroWot ARTF Mk2. I'll only document the more interesting stuff in this thread as the basic build is easy and well documented elsewhere on the 'net. Overall model appears to be of a high build quality with nice touches such as the firewall being fuel proofed, and the hinges being dry fitted... Power plant and radio: Saito 82 turning Graupner 14x7 G-Sonic. Probably going to run 20% nitro. Hitec HS-5485HB digital servos on control surfaces, Futaba 3004 on throttle Futaba radio gear to ensure pilot error

Hi Mike, Welcome! Great choice of club, I'm sure we'll have you flying solo in no time! What radio/model have you purchased? In addition to coming to the field, there are some other things you could do in parallel... If you have a computer, a good investment is a simulator - it will help you get familiar with controls, reinforce lessons learned at the field and generally speed up the learning process. Phoenix is the one we tend to use although as with everything there are other choices. Also, If you are someone who likes to mentally prepare/read-ahead - then these links may h

I'm with Gary, half the fun is flicking the little buggers over...

Is that a good thing? I always thought the 20 was a bit borderline on power to weight