Bravedan

Is revising CG Calc OK?? BALANCING A BIPLANE Usual Start point 25% - 23% MAC, but what is the MAC................ The MAC is the chord that represents the wings as a whole about which lift, drag and pitching moment forces act. The MAC for a constant-chord, straight-wing biplane with no wing stagger is the chord of the top wing, since they are the same. The MAC for a biplane with staggered wings (as Mini-Panic) is simply the combination of the top wings chord and the horizontal stagger distance. To find the start CG, measure 25 percent of the MAC back from the top w

It not unexpectedly says use a Y lead, but of course uses two channels for wing servos in wing mode. No remote or physical "off" switch, well if there is, I don't know how, and it's not mentioned in the unexpectedly well written instructions. It should make something like a mega fast wing or Fun Jet much easier to fly.

You want more..............???? OK, so it was f..f..f..f..freezing cold, trying to rain (but not really succeeding) and a blustery breeze from nothing to 10mph and back again swirling off the trees to the north across the patch when I first arrived. Flew one battery, then raised the gains on all three axis, not because it needed it, but just to see. The feel is quite nice, it doesn't take over (Sorry Trevor!) or otherwise intrude, but def adds to the stability. I set it into a large banked turn, then kept completely off the sticks for a complete circuit before the turn tighte

Here's the first report:- IT WORKS!!

BTW, for those not up the field yesterday, I flew a micro Firefly homegrown lookalike at Swanley on Sat a friend had built.........with a board from a HyperTaxi he'd written off after a very few flights. (VERY Expensive way of doing it!) It flew well, though the plane didn't have a lot of power so would not loop, kept falling off the top. Rolls were superbly managed though, and it "tracked on rails" to use the over worn metaphor. NOT self correcting, but very much "stay where put". Having got lots of hours outdoors (in lots of wind) and indoors on std size Fireflys, I should be better

As said at field, when I have tested it and got better feel for it (or not) and can report fully! No need to "claim" its better Richard, I KNOW its better....................... All its done so far is fly the garden one way and static test. This is a FIXED WING specific gyro, NOT intended for Helis. They do a Tri/Quad etc board, but not what I wanted currently, though I do fancy a large quad camera platform. Initial setting up was tricky ONLY because I was fitting it to a Wing, and the "Wing" setting didn't work for the elevons. Took me a few mins to remember that the Tx being

Do I have?.................the only FireFly with a 3 Axis Gyro fitted...................

Tomorrow I will be building a Sky Surfer, and painting the body on my 450 Sikorsky/Westland Dragonfly.............. but the Sky Surfer won't be made from EPP, won't be pusher, and will be elevon only........... What will it be?

Built these since it was raining......................... and raining............and raining............ From the left:- 1. HK500CMT direct from Hobby King, Carbon/Metal, GY520, full digital MG930s and coreless tail servo, Typhoon 500 motor, Scorpion 80A ESC. 2. Giant Cod "HK500GT" - Bought last week on pre-move clear out for £45. Carbon/Metal, GY401,MG930's and EX9257 tail, 500 motor, HobbyWing Platinum 80A ESC. 3. Giant Cod "HK500GT", Carbon/Metal, HK401, TY53317M, MG930 tail, Soft tune wide response 500 motor, HobbyWing Opto 60A ESC, 5A UBEC. Twin white LED headlight

Several (many!!) years ago when the Twister Medevac(s) started impacting indoor flying (in more ways that one ) the bling market started with them. I was initially amazed how many people bought the bright blue anodised metal for fitting to a olive green (Army) scale appearance Heli.................. YUK!!! One infamous Swanley night had 30 plus of these all bobbing a foot from the ground because they could not climb any more if they tried.......briefly. I'd stripped mine of all non essential cosmetics, made the throws as much as possible, and as long as I remembered to avoid b

Yes, there are loads and loads of metal add ons, grips/swash/head/etc, just as there are for most Heli's, but in this case even more than usual of a complete and utter con..........pay lots of money for the thing to fly worse and the duration per battery to be reduced..........Super! At least there is no metal flybar cage.............. I have a fully metal modded Sceadu, one of my four.........the parts new cost £600 on top of the std kit, the "T" head alone was £325 at the time.........(and no I didn't pay ANY of it, the price I paid secondhand was the same as a std one, so the

BTW, the 10CG has a perfectly good Throttle cut/hold system in the Heli side of the programming house, they just seem to have fallen asleep while doing the fixed wing side!!

You won't address issues that may exist in the firmware on a 10CG because it was never designed to do so (as you said) and because Futaba have moved on and have no intention of even glancing at a 10CG again, let alone updating it. Like nearly all products, it's a victim of its time. However, its a good reliable Tx with little of substance to complain about, so good that I know a still growing number of very experienced 3D Heli flyers (who drive a Tx more heavily than most RC Pilots) who have returned to one FROM an 8FG, because they consider after trying both that the feel is much better o

Yes, neat way round it. I have done it another way, and can't remember that way either............... BUT........... Wings are much much better launched with at least a little power on, and the 100% reliable safe and stable used for many years way of doing it (if right handed) is to hold the Tx in the right hand with thumb on RH stick, hold leading edge of left wing of plane away from prop zone with left hand, set throttle with mouth or chin on throttle stick, and discus launch it in front of you. You then instantly have full control of flight surfaces, and a sensible power level

SLIGHTLY off topic, but it's now as far as I'm concerned confirmed beyond doubt that with 2.4GHz and a big ESC the ESC capacitors and or the BEC circuit placement can give you a few seconds control even after the FETS have torched and the heat sink melted off, enough to orientate it better for the approaching no damage "arrival". A while back I had a battery fall out of a plane and disconnect (Windrider Fox) in a loop when inverted, and sans battery (and canopy!) I had enough radio to half roll, level it, point it at the strip angled away from the pits, and set the right amount of elevator

One that was too much for it!!

So, with four flights under its belt yesterday, I thought I'd push it still further, so a change of prop and off it went........screaming......... Probably around half battery, out came the magic smoke.......big time........quite a nice trail really.......... Got it down low enough and finally lost radio low and slow enough so it "fell" into longer field grass, by this time with visible flames..... This was Arun's pic (thanks Arun) after the very short walk back to the pits......... Smoke still rising ............the ESC didn't like being over driven much..........

Hope their software is better written and has less errors than their website................

Well, my quick n nasty Glider to Power Slipstream conversion flew today. I have the poor motor on a 6x6 Graupner CamSpeed so it's being pushed a bit hard, in fact VERY VERY hard (see below!). Its stood it so far, four flights...........but Hey, its that cheap rubbish Giant Cod stuff, so probably a life measured in minutes, but at a cost of pence, Eh? I'd forgotten what the motor actually was, it's been kicking around here so long, but just checked and it's a 2800kV....... Errr, on a 6x6, gulp............. All the weight does not seem to have blunted the glide or th

CAMFC and gate then, as usual..............

Yes......... Do you want me to host??

From memory Colins motor was a 2212-6, the wind is important, a "6" wind being I consider the std mid size general purpose "fast wing" motor, but wasn't his the Raven, or does he have both?? My Raven was not that much slower, yet only had an EMax 2814 cheap motor and a 1000mAh 3S as a "powered glider" to keep the weight down.

Leon, was that link actually your motor? The link lists as 2000kV, max running 20A (25A brief peak). 20A x 10v (allowing for sag) is 200W input, say in reality 180W output max?? Looks a good motor for a 25-30A ESC.

No Idea, I get "catalogid is missing for extended description" on the link. As it happens I'm just completing one. I had two Slope Soarer Slipstreams (and also a couple of sets of wing cores somewhere!!) but the lighter one of the two was approaching the inevitable "replace the tape" time as it was UV aged and becoming unacceptably loose from the foam. I'd never liked the underneath scheme anyway!! Since I'd proved that the heavier DS spec one would do it all anyway, the weight "saving" of the 300g lighter one just making penetration more difficult as the wind rose, I decided on the s

As I said at the field, I stuck with FS2004 as "X" offered little extra, and I had loads of add ons, for example all the UK Airports and all the UK photorealistic scenery, which amounted to from memory 12 purchases, plus various others like Flying Club (Super detail Shoreham, etc). Some had already been upgraded from FS2002 so I didn't think there was much chance of a "X" version, so have never looked. FS2004 is still heavily supported by Freeware sites Can't help with "X" add -ons, but do inform if you do get any!