Bravedan

The French have quietly changed the Law AGAIN As well as a spare bulb kit, dip right converters, warning triangle (IN car), fluorescent jacket (minimum one, they may get all gallic if you have the family out of the car on a motorway without one each ,and they have to be ready to hand IN THE CAR), Originals (NOT photocopies) of Vehicle Insurance, Vehicle Registration (V5), and Current MOT certificate.............. none of these are new, BUT they now also require:- Minimum of TWO ready to use in date disposable Alcohol Breathalysers IN THE CAR Rumour is they are getting loads of

Story has been circulating for quite a while now, the latest severely puffed up version being in the Daily Mail today (almost a full page, no less). These are it appears Mk 14 Griffon engined variants. (so the pic in that article link here is as usual for the press WAY off target!!) They may have been crated for transport, but the area is super wet and super humid, is very boggy ground as it gets huge rainfall each year, so what are the prospects of a decent preservation state??? Does not seem good to me!!?? The usual Press, number games going on, too................as a max of 60 is b

Really do not think there is a such a thing as a "best" trainer! All far too subjective a subject. I learned on a Super 60 (on which a .19 was considered plenty big enough for carrying around three channel). Mine had a .61. Went on to become the club toffee bomber. Went from that to a 72" Hawk with Profi (all machined) 40, then to a FIA Pylon Racer with a rear induction ST40 and a Club 20 Pylon with a Fox .19.

Ah, but there is a good answer! One of the Safety Master Servo Testers in your plane temporarily to test in flight will tell you current over time as a graph. £21 is a pretty reasonable price for the peace of mind on a big plane. [attachment=0]4460470a.jpg[/attachment] Had forgotten about that unit! Reason is, I'd discounted it, as I probably only have a single model it would fit into, so not a good answer for me, as you say, big plane only. I think they missed the point a bit with that one, OK, if you can fit it, it does give point of use standalone indication, but IMO they

That's actually a very good question to which sadly there isn't a very good answer. For example, Futaba's own website servo tech detail table does not tell you. Neither does JR, nor Savox. They all concentrate on size, speed and torque. To be fair, it depends on so many variables like resisting forces, lever length, digital or analogue, brushless or coreless or brushed, voltage applied, so there is no single easy answer. They could give a stall current I suppose! The only reliable way to prove current draw is to assemble your "set" and then insert an ammeter in the main feed from th

Think of the pack connections. Every friction connection adds a risk that it will fail, get dirty, go high resistance, or the cheap "spring" material will weaken with use and lose full contact (proven common, especially if the flat strip type). A properly spot welded commercial cell pack has two points of friction contact, each pole of the plug. A clip in 4xAA pack has those PLUS at least eight others. THAT is where your increased risk is. Wrapping the pack up will only really make it hotter while charging, possibly even making the generally very low quality "spring" more likel

Interesting and dirt cheap. Is the UBEC, a device that can get quite hot usually, sticking out the rear on a carefully staged picture or not, and if not, how have they arranged cooling I wonder. Might seem a strange choice of a JST plug, but I'd guess they were trying to prevent people not paying due attention charging them in a model and sticking them on a more usual Rx battery charger. I suspect many will change it for a normal Rx plug anyway. (Some ACOMS and other low end sets use JST for NIMH!!) I have been using UBECs and LiPos as Rx supplies for ages, at least four years, partic

To dot a few "i"s, etc......... NICAD is an environmentally dangerous construction no longer on normal sale (due heavy metal cadmium content). It would be best to take any NICAD out of circulation by proper disposal means, not normal refuse, as soon as possible. NIMH is the superseding technology, in some ways (like charge retention) not as good, but that's the way of things! Some servos (and some gyros) are NOT safe for five NIMH cell batteries, i.e., voltage above a fully charged 4 cell battery. This particularly applies to a lot of the fast servos used on Helicopter tail drives but

OK, thanks, but surely this is best in Events and Announcements, which is where people will look back for it?

Well, I guess that depends on the Simulator. For some time I used a dedicated CCPM mix only Heli Tx with Phoenix, actually a cheap one that came with a JP Twister CP, not even switchable out as per the ESky, as that Simulator has built in de-mixing software to cope. Others might too, I don't know, not come across it. NOW who's trying to be controversial..................... Which simulator are we talking about here? FMS? Clearview? etc.

YOU bring the 80 foot long stick, Oh, and a rope big enough to go up 85 feet, over a mature closely branched still leafed Oak with a spread of considerably greater than 80 feet, then back to ground another 80 feet............................... Oh yes, and it's in a stand of other overlapping dense trees..............

Up field now It is well suppported in a branch fork. Had glasses on it. Will not blow down but tree is climbable!!

The guy from before Brians time is:- P A Rowland Evergreen Tree Services 020 877 4702 07956 531785 Not the cheapest, but if you want service..............

Are you going to use one of the retrievers?

CAA Rules for FPV in the UK, Published 26th September 2012:- http://www.caa.co.uk/docs/33/ORS4_945.pdf I'll leave you to read it............................

All true of course, but the model is being specifically advertised for 30cc Gas Engines, it's not being sold as electric only!!!!

Green and Blue are not opposites on the colour wheel so do not contrast well. So you can see it properly and not struggle to tell its attitude, a strong contrast between top and bottom is required. Opposites on the colour wheel are far more suitable, and the darker (but still bright) colour underside. On the bottom, a strong contrast scheme is desirable. not for nothing do so many gliders have black/white stripes or strong colour/black stripes underside, and a top scheme which is either differing colours or if the same, often curved and mostly "along" the wing, contrasting well. Bear i

Arun, I have used these people:- http://www.wickhamwindows.net/ for both new and repair (replacement glass units in existing frames) with excellent results. Don't know if they do what you want, but worth a try? Dave

Sam, Nice looking basic model, but as you and reviewers say, will need considerable strengthening around the front end no matter what form of power. (And HK say its ready for a 30cc gas engine!!! Yea RIGHT!!! ) A healthy coating of Poly C or resin with glass looks absolutely essential. That massive cockpit inner bare wood area is going to need attention too, especially the forward facing parts inside the windscreen, but at least it looks like the transparency is not already fitted to block access. Should with a little work make into a very nice model indeed!

Don't know it, got a picture??

So if its not leaving a lot of coloured backing, then it'll cover again as long as its not fuel soaked/oily. You can lightly sand off the little that does stay. If there is some oil/fuel contamination but not much you could try talcum powder and leave for a week to soak it up out of the wood. Check inside the engine and fuel tank bay, too. If it is well soaked anywhere, move on and forget it, your £10 bargain will become an expensive time consuming and ultimately fruitless waste of time and effort! I said patch, as in clean to remove ANY trace of oil, cover the holes with an over

So, tell us what is happening, and what the covering now is. WHICH model? Presuming it is shrink film, for example, is it leaving the "glue/paint" on the wood? Exactly HOW are you trying to remove it? Why cannot you patch it from what it is? Where (legally) are you intending flying it?

http://www.flairmodels.co.uk/Finishing/Spectrum.htm

I don't build any more in the winter than at other times............. Unfortunately!! I do have a To Do list, but its years long............:- 72" Barnstormer - Build tail, convert to Ailerons, Install OS 70 4St , gear, cover. 90 sized Eurocopter - change engine from OS91 Competition to OS 70, make new top cover, fit interior framing, install chassis, paint. 30 Agusta A109's (2 of) Rebuild front end of Fox Glider (motor caught fire and melted EPP nose off!!! ) Build JW60 Dynamic Soarer ( a glider capable of > 230mph ) Build Speedbird Rebuild Morley

Mobile Phones a) Although mobile telephones operate on frequencies far removed from our model control frequency bands they are a major addition to the increasing background radio ‘noise’ that our equipment has to filter out. In addition, there is some evidence that there may sometimes be an interaction between mobile ‘phones and microprocessor controlled transmitters. b) Many mobile ‘phones transmit powerful signals regularly even when on standby and BMFA recommends that they are not taken into the pits area and especially not on to the flying area. Many phones also emit a