Nutz
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Everything posted by Nutz
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The only issue I would have hanging from the undercart is the direction of the force on the under carrage legs, the undercart legs/screws & plate are having a twisitng pressure from the rear applied instead of the designed top pressure. I prefer hanging from the root of the prop with the pressure being on the firewall (which it is the correct pressure it was designed for)
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That will be over 7Kg, I thought all clubs in the aera of Biggin Hill were no longer allowed to fly over 7Kg?
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Only Nitro
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I used to store mine like ^^^^^ but hanging from the prop up in the loft, the reason for from the prop is so any fuel in the system will A) go back into the take and not through the carb, B) you want to leave the vents, exhaust & carb unblocked as any pressure will build up in the tank and split it and C) any fuel in the engine ends up on the back plate and not the front of the crank bearing (glow fuel rusts bearings).
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Had a Lancaster fly over RAF Waddington last Saturday, I was there doing a Track Day for RAFA.
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Hi Dave, things are good, I keep meaning to pop up the field, I will do at some point, I have been hibernating for the winter.
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Taking of stupidity, I like to kick start a prop plane, Steve will vouch for me.............there is a difference between stupid and dumb though........
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The guy bought my one off has another, but beware could still be a scamster. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SAITO-FG-36-4 ... 155wt_1265
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Ali Mcchinski has a pink spit. ...... But only after drinking raspberry juice.................. I like the Syrian Colours, Yes, DO IT!!! http://www.highalpha.org/forum/download ... &mode=view
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Ali Mcchinski has a pink spit. ......
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http://www.thundertiger.com/product/3872-K22M1.html
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Well I was wrong, you don't rupture pack and salt water does nothing apart from slowly corroding the alu tabs, it does not discharge it. Good job I do mine the mans way, fully charge it put the +&- together a chuck it whilst saying "FIRE IN THE HOLE" and watch it slowly ballon until it ruptures and then it lets loose with the fire works, this method won't work on half charged packs the must be fully charge as it need quite a bit of energy for them to pop themselves.
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That is after you rupture it with a pin or nail.
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Check all the cells, as if you short a pack it can short one of the cells into open circuit (happend to me when I tried to blow a pack up).
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What like I did BTW I can't take credit for it either it was down to Simon Wood when I asked a question http://www.highalpha.org/forum/viewtopi ... =7&t=11348
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he ment 13.82V not 3.82V BTW it only cost me £11 including the £4 postage for the PSW
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Today I built and set-up a trex 600, put it into a MD500 shell with nav & landing lights, rebuilt the rear of my buggy and redone the stars on the mustang, so I think tomorrow will be Xbox all day..............................
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Looks tasty
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I had the older version of the DC-UP (Mk1) with the number display but still a good device to take the strain from you radio system and will give you extra time in a event of a power loss. http://www.fromeco.org/Products/05FRCDCUPM2/ I had this one
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In regards to the high speed tip stall (snap), I normally find out how much elevator it takes to do do it and turn down the end points so your never get into that situation (just like I have done on my WOT 4, Piper Cub, (actually I think all my models apart form the 3D ones) as that will snap out of a loop with too much elevator).
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I just looked on flyingwings and the prop for the 3000Kv motor is a APC 5.5 x 4.5 It will sound like an F1 car on full chat. mine did.
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I have an old broken prop that I use as a jig.
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Out runners are better or torque but for speed you will want a in runner.
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Sorry that link/post was done from my phone, it is actually this one http://www.jperkinsdistribution.co.uk/d ... 0-%20EnErG 3000Kv, normally found in 450 size heli's buy whack a small prop on it and you have a missle. you will need a 40A ESC
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I got some X bits, I will put them onto one of my 16Gb keys for you...................at some point
