Bravedan

Presumably a stolen car............imagine the owner getting it back............. "How did the rear doors get buckled, and what is THAT smeared over the rear seat"

http://www.chonday.com/Videos/thecrw2

Well, I suppose it HAD to happen sometime......................

Not there now!!??!!

At the moment I have a small surplus of the pretty much standard JST-XH balance lead extensions, 3 cell, decent 200mm length. These are useful to avoid having to fumble the battery balance lead directly into the charger socket which is usually in an awkward place or forces the battery into an awkward place, particularly if you use LiPo bags. Offer is to Members, 50p, hand over at field only.

Short Video from yesterday, hardly ideal conditions, a very blustery wind, and lots of sink holes in it. Also my last editing of the Taranis file ended up reversing a few features which still work, but now have switches reversed.............and no time to reset............only SLIGHTLY confusing when its telling you you have flaps and speed mode, when its spoilers and float mode

Lancasters on now........... (which was 15:00ish)

Still watching........... "Raiders" Royal Navy Paras........

Thanks Alan, just got to it a while back, and its still running on what must now be repeats, so seen the Grob, Breitling WingWalkers, Mustang and now as I write the Arrows.

But then as you well know, I'm not overly enthusiastic about anything.......... Seriously (see, I can be... ), weight is not THAT much an issue........but get as little as poss as far forward as poss, and worse, allowing the servo leads to get anywhere near the control rods and servo arms IS, esp when you are going to be swinging it around like a loony...... My ultra thin but quite stiff partition is not fixed in, but wedges into cut slits at the ends, running between the in pod half pipe carbon tube and the receiver bay to battery bay. Its cut up slightly and the sharp edge blu

Hi Arun, 4mm???........... The grammes............... .........and screws? more grammes!! I'm not where the Libelle is currently. There is little flexibility in positioning, but then its a DLG weighing a few grammes, not a porky Wot 4!! Working back, I have a little custom shaped lead cut in under the battery to get CG, the battery leads point forwards then loop back down the battery on the receiver side, with a micro velcro loop to hold it all in place (do NOT trust the canopy!!) The battery lead connects to a "Y" lead I made to fit in the gap between receiver

There simply isn't room for Keeps across the extensions so I have clear taped flat over the whole cable run and the servos area to wind cheat it all. The recesses I have cut are tight enough to hold the joint together. The SD100s fit quite well consider the plane was not made around them. their fixing bracketS are closer to the top but thinner so a simple knife cut on each position allows them to sit in flush and they are held in by two small drops of medium CA on the brackets and the tape. One design feature I don't like at all is that the servos for rudder and elevator are positioned

Be ready, they have shorter leads, and so the extensions to the Rx need to be 200mm ish, not 100mm, and the recess for the plug needs to be other than where they have pre-moulded the recess. Mine is back together.

Just found that I do have enough SD100's to change all my Genings away. They are slightly bigger in all the right ways so cutting the old ones out won't leave holes. I'm uncertain regards the value of the sticker set in stiffening in any useful way, I don't have it, and from experience (and online onboard camera videos) the biggest flex is the fus stick flexing the whole tail. It would maybe reduce the dings to LE...except I don't have any despite a few knocks, and scrub landings, so is that really a problem?. As they want £40 for a new Fus I'm repairing mine, and in case you are w

Then get a Flying Wings Slipstream............... http://www.flyingwings.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=66_100&product_id=283 From four years ago.........(and still going strong!)

" I still have Genings in apart from rudder as they will take a while to get out carefully being glued in." Well, thats a bit easier tonight, as the elevator servo failed today and it went in............ Repairable, only the multi split underside plastic pod is broken, the rest is OK, but that is really awkward, and they want £40 for a replacement Fus so they can go for a walk on that one. On the bench that servo cycles over one half of the range 50% of the time, the rest 75%.......so change "avoid if poss" Genings to avoid at ALL COSTS!!!!

Yes, have one. Just prepping the light wind glider fleet inc it now as off to Wrotham slope today. Bought from T9hobbysport with the package of battery and some Gening digitals. On my Taranis using a RC Settings website .eepe setup file (modded) which gives four spoken flight modes, spoken timer, triple rates, flapperons/spoilerons on throttle stick, etc, etc. I have flown it at Fickleshole when nobody else flying there to be able to stand in the middle of the patch and spin round like a whirling dervish. (OOOPS, I didn't get it noise tested first!!!! ) Opinion:-

Hi, I won't relate the full story, this'll be long enough, but I have ended up co-running "Kent Kopters", which is a BMFA affiliated club with the prime aim of helping beginners to get going with RC Helicopters in a safe indoor environment (all types inc quads, etc). Due to management policy changes at our long term operating base, Charles Darwin Sports Centre (School implant), Biggin Hill, Kent and in order to operate ongoing we have to book ahead, pay up front, and meet the full panoply of sporting club criteria inc safeguarding policy, DBS (formerly CRB) compliance, insurance, etc.

Yes, a small amount of petrol helped keep the poorer designed plugs "back when" hot, or so I have been told numerous times over the years, but I never needed to try it!. Modern glow fuels and plugs IMO does away with any of the advantage petrol mix with glow offered. A petrol percentage offered greater range per tank, useful in some tank size limited racing formulae. I mainly did Club 20 Pylon so that was not relevent. There are no doubt LOADS of forum threads around for the finding.

Dave - given you have tried a lot of nitro mixes - in your opinion is there a "tipping point" for 2-strokes where idle speed/throttle response becomes much better? E.g is 10% half as good as 20% (over exaggeration but you get the point!). OK, your para one................ Add nitro percentage and you are as you say adding an oxygen liberator, not a fuel per se, so the fuel flow rate has to be higher to cater for the percentage of total volume lost to the nitro, not 1:1 but you get the point. Your para two................. From my experimentation (and this applies to my mainstream use

During the tortured life of my SC91 2 stroke powered Panic, it has been used on Straight, 5%, 10%, 20% Heli fuel, 25% car fuel, 30% Optimax, and intermediate mixes of the lot!! Power differences were noticable, but not as significant as per the adverts!! ( ) What WAS noticable was that the higher the nitro the better the throttle response, idle quality, and lower speed of idle that could be set. Just don't assume that because an engine runs OK on 10% after being on 5% (for example) that it can be left untuned for that specific fuel.

Ah Seeemples................

Rubbish UK journalism based on rubbish US journalism from the country that brought you the "benefit" of region specific DVDs............ Best to press the ignore button.................or better yet try and help it be used safely and responsibly. We have a law to stop in hand mobile phone use in cars..................does it work? We have a law to stop middle lane hogging...............does it work? We have a law to stop illegal numberplates........................does it work? Who's going to stop Maplins selling DJI Phantoms to all and sundry? Who's going to actually s

Well, the answer to the question above, was............quite a bit more flying really. What eventually happened was that the tail authority went increasingly erratic. Finally stripping it down, I found that the large front tail drive gear had simply worn away, virtually no teeth left, only driving through friction really, and so was slipping. Of course, I would not have left a bigger Heli that long before stripping it down.

Nearly two years on.......where DOES the time go!! Considering its elderly small OS 32 engine and heavy body, it handles OK..................