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Everything posted by Bravedan
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You may have read about this, but in case it has passed you by, or you have not realised the impact, please read on. There are increasing numbers of reports of link problems while in flight with EU "Listen before Transmit" firmware equipped FRSKY Rx's. Like Spektrum a few years ago, currently all this is unsubstantiated and perhaps fuelled by some people's inability to install gear correctly, but better safe than sorry, Eh? FRSky users who now get new UK sourced Rx's will get the EU firmware installed on supply, like it or not. (I have just got three). These will NOT work with
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Drifting slightly off topic (Sorry, Ben).. I have just got hold of a known good s/h DX9 for a great price, so it joins a Taranis and a Futaba 10CG in front line service, so I'm dealing with broadly comparable sets. Ignoring the who has the most robust link matter, I'm quite impressed with the DX9 (yes I actually said it!!) Why bother with a DX9 as well?, because I have lots of BNFs and the two DX6i's and two DX7s that over time and a combination of bequeaths and good bargaining on buying models had gained are going to be passed on, two donated into my school club along with a M
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NO, incorrect, those improvements were applied to the "std" Taranis from Batch 2 onwards well before the "Plus". It was why I stalled purchase and mine came with them. It is not a mains charger, its a mains power supply, the charger is 12v and internal. I have the larger capacity NIMH battery and upgraded internal charger board. I cannot see nor have experienced any need to external charge, why would you need to?? And the pin layout of the plug is not as per a balance lead, yes, you could easily make, and then you will have a unit that risks LiPo safety if picked upo and
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Back to the Taranis, THIS is FRSky's own list of differences Taranis X9D to "Plus" What is upgraded compared to the X9D 1. Noise reduction 2. Vibration alerts 3. 2 color backlit LCD selectable(blue&white,Orange&white) 4. Upgrade the firmware by using SD card directly,no need to install any driver 1. isn't worth anything, NO Tx goes above 82dB (JOKE, some Tx made a background noise on the speaker when the nice lady was telling you you'd just crashed. Mine didn't) 2. Nice Idea, but the first time it vibrates off the pit table, you won't still think s
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Ben, re: your strapline "Try to convince a 12 year old that flying R/C is cool... my friends aren't so convinced!" I don't need to convince anyone from 11-17, the list of people wanting to join my school RC club year on year far exceeds the available numbers. From eight years direct experience the problem is that many parents/guardians will not give the time to take youths who ARE interested, as they don't see it as a sport in the same way as Rugby or Football (other boring ball games may also apply). Cost is also a factor which FRSky are doing their best to help! I run a RC c
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Now have flown it Indoors and Out. It is set up exactly as manual. Indoors its a pussycat, very stable but with good feel. Outdoors today it was flown on high rates, briefly a few circuits and eights in Normal first, then in Idle Up 2 (100% throttle flat line). After a test loop I straight away on the very next cct into wind did five consecutive loops. This was in 5-8mph. That’s the confidence it gave. In feel and stability its miles better that a TRex style 250. I demo’d it to Mark Fry later on when the breeze had stiffened a little to 8-10 with the odd h
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Then you are associating with the wrong crowd, escape now before they corrupt you. OK, we'll try to take into account you are a bit slow in future................... The Plus only really adds Haptic, and that isn't much good really without mods (when it becomes annoying!), programming is all the same. Trevor, The Taranis is a great radio at a super price and WHEN you buy one I'd be quite happy for you to come round one evening and I'll run through the basics to get you started off well.
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Blimey, you still exist then................... I'm about to find out, a new gaming laptop beckons, which will cease me having any desktops at all, Talking SImulators..................... http://fpv-freerider.itch.io/
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MORE EU legislation coming next year, this will force 2.4GHz Radio manufacturers that allow firmware/software updates to TX and Rx to ensure their hardware being sold new can ONLY install and use firmware that is compliant IN THAT GEOGRAPHICAL AREA. Obviously FRSky is one such likely affected. (but by no means the only) Does not, it appears, affect existing sets sold before the due date directly (as was similarly the case with the now current firmware to comply with EU ruling on Listen Before Transmit), but will most likely introduce further incompatibility issues between old
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Now this is an interesting Blade Heli! It shares some components with the 200 SRX, which in itself is pretty unusual, being a fixed pitch Heli with a head and blade arrangement somewhat nearer to a CP design. The 230s, however, is collective pitch and capable of a full 3D Aero flight envelope. What currently makes it very unusual if not unique though is that Blade have incorporated their "Safe" technology, so theoretically when you recognise that that "Chaos" or inverted move is going horribly wrong, a press of a Tx button makes the Heli recover to level upright attitud
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Well, I'm a CAMFC member, and also co-run an indoor Heli Club in Biggin Hill, fortnightly, 20:15 - 21:45 on Tuesdays. There is one tonight. It's not a turn up and go club, there's no membership charges but you DO have to get agreement to come. Try Finless Bob's videos available here:- http://www.helifreak.com
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Hello David, Are you a CAMFC member? Where are you? With more than 30 Heli's, all fully set up by me, you might think I'd be able to help, and I might, but its beyond Forum talk, meeting would be essential, and you have not indicated location. Addition:- I have a range of Tx's which includes a 35MHz Futaba T7CP, which I'm likely to be putting a FRSky 2.4Ghz "hack module" into, before passing it on.
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http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article ... g-off.html
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Need more details I think! Not clear from wording if engine included or not, for example, as I have some ancient but good Enya funfly size engines doing nothing, but would they be needed and which? Assume its AET only?
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Do this with a model and everyone would say it was unrealistic.................... http://www.chonday.com/Videos/boeintakofpr3
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Currently I have three of the early models, and one recent 107C model with four orientation LEDS and more importantly a full 1080HD camera built in. This more recent little beast is really very very good. About the only criticism that can be levelled at it is that of necessity the camera is fixed to the body. This means that you have to be quite skilled at placing it as where it points is the camera direction with some fixed downwards deflection. Also when you have to move to forward flight, the camera view dips markedly. However, learn to fly it smoothly (and don't use expert
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Long interval, but as I'm sitting here with the chargers "battery watching".............. There is no doubt at all that the 180CFX is a step up from the 130X. It's only a trifle bigger as the numbering suggests but just about every component is that little bit better made, from the short link "proper" servos to the meatier more accurately made tail drive. Being more accurately made with less slop in all the actions, initially at least it may appear more nervous, a "bigger challenge" to fly. It requires more careful set up as a result, as no slop and small size means t
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If you do need to sand EPP any time, (and the FireFly is NOT one that benefits) then do NOT use normal sheet abrasives, use coarse and medium "Dry Wall Sanding Screen". This used lightly gets a smooth finish with no tears as it does not clog. Dave (builder of 100 plus EPP planes over the years inc five FireFlys).
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Peter....... 1. Do NOT sand the leading edges, it'll ruin its handling. You will have two layers of foam, the main sheet and the KF section. Use a sharp scalpel/knife and cut the upper main wing LE off at 45 degrees. (ruler guide and angled blade) 2. The best way to do the elevons is: a) cut them out of sheet b) chamfer them at a min of 45 degrees on the underside with a knife to allow rotation. (I try to get at least 60 degrees surface movement each way) c) put a small bead of UHU POR along the point of the chamfer. d) put a small bead along the main body wher
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Don't know if its possible in this case but a lengthwise splintered carbon tube can be repaired by inserting a smaller tube (or rod if so small the strength isn't good enough) and flooding it with wicking thin cyano as you say. Can you "guide" the pushrods by temp extending them with a rod and something to grab their end to avoid it digging in?
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Lots of reasons, diff to say without playing with it.
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And unlikely to foul the local park, pits or runway.......................................
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BTW, your above test....this was with the motor running??
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Peter, I now do not rely on a first time new installation power down range check - ever. This is because I have had an instance of a FRSky FASST 8Ch which passed the PDRC perfectly, yet the full range offered was only a little more. I found out the hard way and with a Helicopter, but luckily got away with it. Then proved it by testing several times. The Rx WAS at fault, inspecting it working afterwards very very closely in low light I saw that the green bound LED was just visibly flickering. You would not have seen this in normal daylight. I guessed (as no test gear to prove) that i