arun

Make sure you replace ply with ply. It has significantly different properties and is used by designers for good reason. Plenty of books out there on model aircraft design if you want to know more. What is left of the Precedent range is stocked by SLEC so try them. I wouldn't hold much hope for that particular model... Don't. Trainers follow a very constant set of design ratios and unless you really know what you are doing (i.e. don't need to ask ) I wouldn't recommend this change as all the parameters of an aircraft are interrelated so changing this will have other effects whic

Has been posted elsewhere, but in case you haven't seen it, this is something special... Loads of build photos here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/80143796@N07

Another season, another mod... I noticed HobbyKing were doing a nice fused power strip - 2x40A (total draw) + 3x10A outputs assuming you can drive them, which the above PSU all but can. So now my 4 LiPo chargers can have the fleet ready to fly at about an hours notice [attachment=1]photo 1.JPG[/attachment] [attachment=0]photo 2.JPG[/attachment]

Yep, never modded mine and has seen plenty of abuse on two continents and still going strong!

I haven't got that kind of concentration! My mind always seems to wand..... ...

Certainly an intriguing setup ... I'm working toward (on paper) a 50cc or 100cc for next season. Obviously that isn't flown at Fickleshole, but am a member of Phoenix these days which is ideal for this size of model. As usual, time is the constraint

Good call. Look forward to seeing it go! I think it's about time I got another larger petrol model ... but I need to whittle down the wish-list a bit and figure out exactly what I want from it

Looks nice! Which airframe is it, and what servos and electronics are in it?

I managed to build a reasonable vertical mount at the weekend. Used garage hook from Screwfix which were £10 for six. A warning: the same hooks in Homebase are a *lot* more expensive.

Yes, looks good doesn't it? I've been working out some templates tonight for my IC models (I know, crazy way to spend a Sunday night!) which will leave the horizontal racks for my electric models. Of course, templates are easy ... fabricating them requires persuading my wife to take the kids out for an afternoon

@Martin - this also looks an interesting option: http://www.jimead.f2s.com/plane_storage_system.htm

I might purchase one of these - seems ideal with an appropriate hook in the wall, although maybe the plastic hook wouldn't be ideal for heavier airframes.

What is the best way to hang a plane nose up, flush against a wall? Do you hook something around the crankshaft, or the UC?

Absolutely agree - have seen three near misses (from memory) caused by unrestrained electrics! And remember, an electric won't stall when it hits flesh - it will keep chopping and drawing more and more current. In addition it is worth having a switchable throttle curve that stops the throttle stick having any effect until you are ready - I use this (is coloured red on my TX) and is only armed when the plane is on the strip. For larger electrics I have actually used dual-arming switches to make sure the motor is on only when I have made a very conscious decision for it to be on. If anyone n

Yes, good point on the fuel run-off. My rails have some angle built in to help fuel run back for that reason - hopefully is enough... time will tell I always shut my carbs, but leave breathers and exhaust open (currently, not when was hanging from ceiling as noted) as I didn't want dust or other rubbish settling in carb, I guess it's a 50-50 call?

I used to put a piece of tissue in silencer, and give the engine a fairly good wipe. I didn't have any major problems, but if you were worried (aesthetics aside) you could always put something like a vegetable bag from your local supermarket over the engine area and hold it in place with an elastic band around the fuselage.

The uprights are 43x35mm pine, screwed into the wall using 100mm screws and wall plugs (this is definitely overkill for the weight it needs to hold!). The projecting bars are 35x35mm pine butted to the upright and held in placed with a 150mm shelf bracket. End of each projecting bar has a large screw sticking out the top to act as a former for the pipe lagging - this give eaxh projecting bar a 'lip' to stop the model accidentally coming off. Seems to have worked well, and cost less the £15 to build In my old house neither did I. I used to store two high wing models suspended from th

Is even cheaper at Micron RC if they still have any copies left in their closing down sale

Have completed stage one of moving home.... safe racking of the currently airworthy frames, the rest are in hangar two (the loft). Frame is built of ~40mm sq wood and bolted to brick wall with 100mm screws. Would be interesting if anyone else has pics of how you store your airframes?

What's anyone on The Big Bad Internet going to do with your first name?

Off topic - it would be good if everyone used their real names since is a club forum where members are known to each other in "real-life". That said, I understand not everyone wants to be publicly identified with flying toy planes

Just one thing to add to the already good advice. Time spent in the air is only a fraction of the learning process, there are lots of other techniques like visualisation that will help you cope with bad scenarios. But the best advice of all, is to get a simulator such as Phoenix and spend at least one hour a day on it as this will resolve most of the co-ordination issues before you even need to worry about breaking a real plane. That said, it is easy to learn bad habits too on a simulator, so make sure you couple it to the real world advice of your instructor.

Finally gave the AcroWot its maiden flight at the field today. Sunshine and low-wind made it uneventful. Needed two clicks of right aileron to trim and took less than a minute before I was making the airframe do far more than is considered polite on a first date; I guess it's the kind of airframe that inspires confidence! The Saito didn't miss a beat and a lovely low idle around 2600 meant touch-n-go after touch-n-go. Thanks to Sam for spotting for me. Roll on next week

I've never had an engine not come with a glow!? Certainly OS and Saito give you one.

I bought one too - said stock was running low (this morning). Not surprising!